Less than a 100 kms from Kolkata is the city of Burdwan, which is not only famous for its rich multi-cultural heritage but also the striking Bengali architectural legacy. This quintessential architectural heritage is visible in the temples. One of the sacred landmarks in the city is the 108 Shiva Mandir built in the year 1809 by Maharaja Tej Chandra Bahadur. The complex of 108 Shiva temples is frequented by both locals and tourists. I felt blessed and fortunate to walk around all the 108 temples, reciting Óm Namah Shivaya. The mantra seemed to resonate in the peaceful environs of the temple complex, the beautiful lake, and the surrounding trees and plants.
While this temple complex is near the city, the Shaktipeeths are a distant away in remote villages in Burdwan district. So Shaktipeeth darshan across West Bengal is not only a pilgrimage to reconnect with our essence of the divine feminine, but also soak in the natural beauty of rural Bengal. As nature is a manifestation of the Goddess herself, it is not surprising that most of the shrines dedicated to her are located near water bodies and green spaces.
Shri Mangal Chandi Shaktipeeth
Located in a sleepy little village of Kogram is the Shri Mangal Chandi temple (Ujaani Shaktipeeth), where the left elbow of the Goddess is found. Here she is worshipped as Mahishasur Mardini (Goddess Durga). This is a small temple, managed privately by the Roy family for many generations. With the 22nd generation taking care of the temple now. Interestingly, her Bhairav called Kapilambar is in the same sanctum sanctorum.
When we reached there, we were the only devotees, and I realised that not too many people would be frequenting on regular days. I was however informed that in times of festivities, huge crowds gather here to sleek the blessings of the Goddess. As with all other Shaktipeeths, here too was a prominent water body, the river Ajay, flowing right behind the temple.
Shri Jogadya Shaktipeeth
About 45 minutes drive away is the Jogdaya Shaktipeeth in Kshirgram, location of the Goddess’ right toe. Before visiting the temple we went to pay our respects at Maa-er Baari (the Mother’s House). Here there was no statue of the Goddess, but a blocked tunnel, from where it is believed she had emerged. The story goes that Hanuman had gone to Pataal Lok (realm located under the earth) to rescue Shri Ram and Lakshman from the demon king Mahiravan, who ruled the nether world. Mahiravan had mastered occult arts and was a great devotee of Goddess Kali. After defeating him, when Hanuman emerged from this tunnel, he brought the idol of the Goddess and she followed him from Pataal Lok. Later she was named as Jogadya and has been worshipped here since ages.
A local lady informed us that there are snakes guarding the tunnel’s entrance and as it is a sacred portal from which the Goddess came, the space is revered. As there is no idol, I tried to take a pic of the Goddess’s photograph in the adjoining room, but I was immediately warned not to do so. The locals said that the photograph is so powerful that we cannot keep it with us at home. But yes, they did allow me to take a pic of the room with the bed where they say the Goddess came and slept every night (for every morning they continue to find a crumpled sheet).
A short distance away is a white marble temple, where the original idol of the Goddess is under water. As this idol was found in the pond, it is believed that this is where she wants to be, so once a year (for 24 hours) in the month of May, the idol is taken out, worshipped with all rituals and again submerged. As the temple is partially under water, nobody is able to access it. However, next to the original shrine, is a new structure, which houses another beautiful statue of the Goddess as Mahishasur Mardini (slayer of the demon Mahishasur) and worshipped by throngs of devotees who come here every day.
Like all other Shaktipeeths, there is a cremation ground nearby, and the Bhairav temple is a short walk away through narrow bylanes. Her Bhairav is named as Khireswar and his temple is at an elevation. One has to take a short flight of steps to reach the sanctum sanctorum, but it is worth the effort as along with seeking blessings in the ancient temple, one can soak in the peaceful environs and enjoy the surrounding village view from the location.
Bahula Shaktipeeth
From Kshirgram, it took us about an hour to reach Bahula Shaktipeeth in Ketugram, which is approximately 32 kms away. The left arm of Maa Sati is enshrined in this shaktipeeth, and the Goddess here is known to fulfil the wishes of all those who come seeking blessings. In the sanctum sanctorum, the beautifully decked idol of the Goddess is flanked by her sons Ganesh and Kartikeya, and Bhairav, her divine consort, is known as Bhiruk.
Though the entrance is through a narrow lane, the temple complex is very peaceful. I didn’t stay here for long, but the deep sense of peace and groundedness I felt here has stayed with me for a long time. And every time I think of Bahula Shaktipeeth, I relive those moments again.
Kiriteswari Shaktipeeth
At a distance of about 82 kms from Bahula Shaktipeeth is another important temple – Kiriteswari Shaktipeeth, in Kiriteswari village of Murshidabad district. This is where the front part of Maa Sati’s skull had fallen. The word Kirit actually means “crown”, hence the name Kiriteswari. Much as I would have wished to, I did not get an opportunity to explore the village, which had won in 2023 the ‘Best Tourism Village of India’ award by the Union Ministry of Tourism. Kiriteswari Shaktipeeth is the focal point of all cultural and religious activities in this village.
The priest informed that the old temple was destroyed in an earthquake, and the structure built in its place has an interesting mix of Hindu, Buddhist and Islamic architectural style. In the sanctum sanctorum too this blend is visible. Interestingly, the idol of the Goddess is not kept in the temple, and an intricately crafted stone representing the crown is worshipped. Her eyes on the stone radiate an unexplicable energy when you look at them. The idol is kept elsewhere all through the year and is brought out and worshipped for four days in the winter months when a huge fair is also organised attracting thousands of people.
I noticed renovation activity in the temple complex, which has many surrounding small shrines, including of course the Bhairav temple. A new main temple is also coming up soon, in place of the remains of the original structure that has been lying in ruins.
Important info:
How to reach: All the above Shaktipeeths are easily approachable from Burdwan. The city is a major railway junction and is well connected by road from Kolkata.
Accommodation: Hotel RJ is an excellent 4 Star property in Burdwan, and the best place to stay for a few days and explore the area.
Shaktipeeth guided tours are organised across West Bengal by India Beacons Sojourn. WhatsApp contact: Anubha (8585007393) / Sandeep (9903295920).
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’, ‘Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)