Mahishmardini, Kankalitala, Fullara Devi, Nandikeshwari, Nalateshwari: Shaktipeeths in Birbhum, West Bengal

Most people know of Birbhum district in West Bengal due to the presence of Rabindranath Tagore’s Shantiniketan in the area, however, there is much more to “the land of red soil” that people outside Bengal are not commonly aware of. The place takes great pride in its history which goes back many millennia, to pre-historic times. Significantly, it is home to one Siddhapeeth, Tarapith, and five important shaktipeeths that have been drawing pilgrims down the ages. The five Shaktipeeths are – Mahishmardini, Kankalitala, Fullara Devi, Nalateshwari, and Nandikeshwari. All these temples are not too far from each other, but one would still need at least two days to cover all the places.

Mahishmardini Shaktipeeth
Located just about 7 km from the district headquarters, Suri, in Birbhum district, Bakreshwar is a spiritual centre attracting pilgrims from across the state. The expansive temple complex is renowned for being a shaktipeeth (where Devi’s space between the eyebrows fell), the Bakranath Bahirav temple, the legend of sage Ashtavakra, and its famous hot springs. This place is also known as Bakreswari Shaktipeeth.

After entering the vast gates, to go towards the temples, we crossed the hot springs (kunds) where many people were taking baths. On the opposite side of the hot springs are the walls with sculpted murals of hand mudras.

The waters are believed to have medicinal properties and there are separate bathing areas for men and women. There are numerous hot springs here with different temperatures (and names), the hottest being the waters of Agni Kund at 93.33 degrees Celsius.

The first temple we visited was an ancient Shiva temple dedicated to his much-loved devotee Sage Ashtavakra, who has been much revered for his great wisdom down the ages.

The story of the challenges and ridicule he faced because of his deformed body (the word Ashtavakra means eight deformities), and how through the power of his devotion and great wisdom, he became such a celebrated sage, is truly inspirational. In this temple the original Shivlinga is covered by a gold casing representing the sage, as per lore, Shiva wants pilgrims to worship his great devotee Ashtavakra first, before himself.

In the temple of the goddess, I was mesmerized by the beautiful idol of Mahishmardini.

Like me, I am sure the strength, power, and beauty it exuded, left no pilgrims untouched. The priests informed that the glabella (space between the eyebrows) has been kept preserved just below idol.

Adjacent to the main temple of the shaktipeeth, is the Bakranath Bahirav temple. Here too the Shivalinga in all its simplicity, emanated such a powerful energy that one could feel it tangibly.

Kankalitala Shaktipeeth
About 9 km from Bolpur where Viswa Bharati University is located, is Kankalitala Shaktipeeth.

The term Kankalitala is derived from the word ‘Kankal’, meaning skeleton. This is the place where the pelvis of Maa Sati is located, within a pond, in a clearly demarcated area.

This sacred pond is in fact the key focus for all the pilgrims, the sanctum sanctorum in the main temple does not have an idol, but yes, there is a painting of Goddess Kali.

The powerful energy of Kankalitala has drawn many spiritual masters and tantriks through the centuries, to come here and perform their practices. From the temple, when we walked towards Kopai river, we could see many samadhis of such spiritual masters and aspirants.

Efforts have been made to beautify the area and make it more convenient and attractive for visitors. Aarati is performed by the river in the evenings and should not be missed.

The temple complex is large and walking around one can almost physically feel the powerful energy of the place.

The small Bhairav temple is located in the vicinity, and he is known as Ruru Bhairav. When we reached the Bhairav temple, the priest was keen that he should be clicked also and posed excitedly with the Shivalinga. I obliged, for I truly believe that the ‘devta’ and his devotee are inseparable, so why not capture them in the same frame?

As the evening drew to a close and we headed towards Bolpur, I continued to feel the mystical throbbing of the powerful energy at Kankalitala. Every time, I recollect that evening, I feel engulfed by the same energy again.

Fullara Devi
Fullara Devi Shaktipeeth in Labpur is also known as Attahas Shaktipeeth, and this is the place where the divine mother’s lower lip is found.

There is no idol here, but a stone worshipped as her lower lip. Coloured in red, the eyes on it are mesmerizing, and make one catch a breath.

The powerful energy of Attahas Shaktipeeth made me feel almost numb, mentally and physically. The only thing I could do was surrender and be washed by this energy.

The sanctum sanctorum is in a large room with a silver canopy dangling above Maa Fullara. There is a small Bhairav temple in the vicinity, and he is known as Vishvesh Bhairav here.

The complex itself is quite vast and peaceful with a beautiful pond, called Rishikesh Ghat. As per local lore, when Shri Ram was looking for 108 blue lotuses to worship Maa Durga, this is the pond where the lotuses were found. Devotees can in fact spend a few peaceful hours soaking in the natural beauty of the temple complex.

Nandikeshwari Shaktipeeth
Nandikeshwari Shaktipeeth in Sainthia is where the collarbone of the divine mother is located. Here too, there is no idol, but a stone shaped exactly like a collarbone.

There are many small temples around the main one, and Bhairav here is known as Nandikeshwar.

When I visited this Shaktipeeth, there was a major renovation going on within the complex, and I felt fortunate and blessed to have a peaceful darshan of Maa Nandikeshwari and the astonishing stone worshipped as her collarbone. The sanctum sanctorum was small, and the priests kindly allowed me to take a photograph.

Nalateshwari Shaktipeeth
A drive of one and a half hours away from Nandikeshwari Shaktipeeth, is the Nalateshwari Shaktipeeth.

This shaktipeeth in Nalhati is also just about an hour’s drive away from the famous Tarapith Siddhapeeth in Birbhum, which draws millions of devotees every year. In contrast, after traversing a maze of labyrinthine lanes when one reaches Nalateshwari Shaktipeeth, one is greeted by a peaceful environment with hardly any crowd. I was informed that during festivities like Durga Puja, Kali Puja, and other important occasions, the scene is different with a huge upsurge of pilgrims gathering here.

The first thing that struck me was the beautiful facade of the temple, lit up in soft evening lights. Built in the typical temple architectural style of Bengal, it is a sight to behold. Taking a flight of steps when I reached the main temple and the sanctum sanctorum, I was struck by the resplendent idol of the goddess with her three golden eyes, golden tongue, and silver crown. The priest informed me the throat (windpipe) of Goddess Sati is preserved here, just below the idol.

The adjacent temples have idols of Ganesha and Hanuman, while the Bhairav temple, known as Yogesh Bhairav here is located nearby, within the complex.

At every shaktipeeth, I was fascinated by the fact that the Bhairav temples were such simple structures but had such powerful energy. It is believed that Bhairav guards the shaktipeeths and also balances the immense power of Shakti for the pilgrims who visit them. Shiva and Shakti are always together … while it is beyond the realm of our thoughts to understand their divine essence completely, by visiting the shaktipeeths we are able to connect with them together and take one small step ahead, in our efforts towards our spiritual evolution.

Important info:
How to reach: The above Shaktipeeths are a short drive from Bolpur/ Shantiniketan.
Accommodation: Bolpur offers varied accommodation choices, from hotels to homestays. I stayed at the centrally-located Club Central Hotel.

Shaktipeeth guided tours are organised across West Bengal by India Beacons Sojourn. WhatsApp contact: Anubha (8585007393) / Sandeep (9903295920).

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’, and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)