The sacred city of Haidwar is the gateway to Chardham Yatra in Uttarakhand. For most pilgrims, a necessary part of their journey is a visit to the three Shaktipeeths in Haridwar, either on their way to Chardham or after returning from the higher Himalayas. Haridwar is renowned for its Panch Tirth (five important pilgrimages) within the city, among which are the two Shaktipeeths – Bilwa Tirtha (Mansa Devi temple) and Neel Parvat (Chandi Devi temple). Maya Devi Shaktipeeth is in the heart of the city near Birla Ghat.
Maya Devi Shaktipeeth
Located within the Juna Akhada precincts, Maya Devi temple is a peaceful sanctuary that calls all seekers within its divine embrace. One can feel the beautiful, loving energy of the goddess as soon as one steps inside the temple. Among the 51 Shaktipeeths where different parts of Maa Sati’s body have fallen, this is where her heart is said to be enshrined. It is not surprising that those seekers who come here feel this all-encompassing love as soon as they connect with her energy. It is also said that along with her heart, Maa Sati’s navel also fell here.
Maya Devi is the presiding deity of Haridwar, as earlier the city was known as Mayapuri. This ancient Shaktipeeth dates back to the 11th century. Goddess Shakti in this temple has three aspects – Maa Maya in the centre, Maa Kali facing left, and Maa Kamakhya facing right.
Prominently displayed on the walls are photographs of the Das Mahavidyas – Kali, Tara, Tripura Sundari, Bhuvaneshvari, Bhairavi, Chhinnamasta, Dhumavati, Bagalamukhi, Matangi and Kamalatmika. The Bhairavs of the Mahavidyas are also worshipped along with them, so one can find many Shivlings within the temple. I could also see a board featuring the Kaal Bhairav Ashtkam.
This was my second visit to the Maya Devi temple after many years, but this time, being more aware of Maa Shakti’s various aspects, my experience was more profound and beautiful.
Mansa Devi Shaktipeeth
Located at the top of the Shivalik Hills is Bilwa Tirth, popularly known as the Mansa Devi temple in Haridwar. Thousands of people visit the Shaktipeeth every day. While many take the 3 km trek to the top of the mountain, others like me opt for the ropeway or Udan Khatola. It is advisable to buy a combined ropeway ticket for both Mansa Devi temple and Chandi Devi temple from the ticket counter here.
The ropeway ride and the view from the top of the mountain are absolutely stunning. The temple complex is huge, and it takes quite some time to navigate through the queues formed by the throng of devotees.
One of the most revered and powerful Shaktipeeths in this part of the country, Maa Sati’s forehead is believed to have fallen here. It is said that Mansa Devi emerged from Lord Shiva’s mind, and hence the name Mansa (originating from the word Manas, meaning mind, intellect). People come here to get their wishes fulfilled, and the goddess in her infinite kindness blesses them. There are many smaller shrines within, and when one finally reaches the silver gates of the sanctum sanctorum, having a glimpse of Maa Mansa’s beautiful murti is a sacred wish fulfilled for all the pilgrims.
After having darshan, while waiting for the cable car, the beautiful views further uplifted me spiritually and made me think how most of the Shaktipeeths are located in surroundings that make all pilgrims strengthen their connection with Mother Nature, who is none other than Shakti herself.
Chandi Devi Shaktipeeth
Chandi Devi Shaktipeeth is at the top of the Neel Parvat in the eastern Shivalik Hill range. The fierce form of Shakti, Maa Chandi, had slayed the demon kings Shumbha and Nishumbha. The place where she had rested after the ferocious battle is where the temple came up. Though the present temple was built here about a hundred years ago, the main murti of Maa Chandi is believed to have been installed here in the 8th century by Adi Shankaracharya.
Chandi Devi temple is also known as a Siddhapeeth, where pilgrims get their desires fulfilled. While I saw many people opting to trek to Mansa Devi temple, most pilgrims here had taken the cable car, probably as the climb was more difficult. The ropeway takes pilgrims to the top of the mountain, after which there are still some steps to reach the temple.
Like the Mansa Devi temple, there are multiple shrines here, and it is a big temple complex. Standing in queue with hundreds of other devotees, when I reached the door of the sanctum sanctorum, the benign vermillion covered face of the goddess seemed so simple and earthy. I was almost taken aback by the different kind of energy I felt here.
As the Chandi Devi temple is away from the chaotic lanes of Haridwar, one can spend some time here soaking in the beautiful surrounding views and connecting with sacred nature in a peaceful environment.
Important info:
How to reach: Haridwar is well connected by the Indian Railways. It does not have its own airport; the nearest is Dehradun’s Jolly Grant Airport, at a distance of about 35 km.
Accommodation: There are many stay options in Haridwar for various budget categories – from ashrams and homestays to boutique properties near the Ganga river.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories, ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)