Bargabhima, Ratnavali, Shrinkhala Devi, Kalighat: West Bengal Shaktipeeths near Kolkata

Of the 51 Shaktipeeths in India – the maximum number of temples dedicated to Adi Shakti (Mother Goddess) are in the state of West Bengal – from Kalighat temple in the heart of bustling Kolkata city to remote villages and mofussil townships like Kogram and Nalhati. The 13 Shaktipeeths in West Bengal are easily accessible by road, and for all true seekers who wish to visit these sacred places, it is a joyous journey of immeasurable blessings. Interestingly, it is not only a journey by road across hundreds of kilometers, crisscrossing the state, but sets off a far deeper, longer, and exciting journey within the core of our being.

For those unaware, all the 51 Shaktipeeths are temples that enshrine the different parts of Adi Shakti’s (Maa Sati’s) body, manifested as powerful spiritual centres for those seekers who want to connect with the primordial energy of the divine feminine.

Bargabhima Shaktipeeth
My trip began with Bargabhima, popularly known as Vibhash Shaktipeeth in Tamluk region, about 85 kms from Kolkata in Purba Medinipur district. A short flight of steps leads to the temple complex where the extraordinarily beautiful idol of Maa Kali leaves one transfixed. It is believed to be one of the oldest temples in West Bengal, established more than a 1000 years ago. The left ankle of Maa Sati had fallen here. The temple complex includes many surrounding shrines. Taking centrestage in the vast courtyard is a sacred tree and on the other side is the holy tank.

There are many interesting stories and legends associated with the temple, down the ages – from the times of the Pandavas to India’s Freedom struggle. It was originally supposed to have been built by Bhima, the mightiest of all Pandava brothers. Following the Islamic invasion in Bengal, the structure that we see now was built later. It is said that the famous Indian revolutionary, Khudiram Bose, used to come and seek blessings of Maa Kali here.

After having darshan of the resplendent form of Maa Kali at the main temple, do make it a point to visit the Bhairav and Hanuman temple at the entrance. Maa Sati is also called Kapalini in this shaktipeeth, while her Bhairav here is known as Sarvanand.

Ratnavali Shaktipeeth
At a distance of about 86 kms from Kolkata, in Hoogly district of West Bengal, is Ratnavali Shaktipeeth, where Maa Sati’s right shoulder is enshrined. Her Bhairav here is known as Ghanteshwar and his temple itself attracts large crowds from nearby areas.

We reached here early afternoon, but by that time the temple had closed. Looking at our predicament and understanding that we would have to wait for many hours or return back without having darshan of the Goddess, the priest kindly opened a small side window so that we could see her idol. Perched precariously on broken bricks I peered inside the darkened sanctum sanctorum. It took some time for the eyes to adjust to the darkness, but yes I could clearly see the majestic form of Maa Kali. The energy was electrifying and I still get goosebumps when I think of the moment my eyes held her form – darker than the surrounding darkness. It was perhaps her wish that this is how we should see her all encompassing dark countenance, from which everything has emerged and finally merges.

I was informed that Maa Kali’s idol at Ratnavali is in the form in which the dacoits of Bengal used to worship her in the days of yore. Interestingly, painted on the walls of the temple are the names of all 51 Shaktipeeths with each corresponding body part of Maa Sati.

Shrinkhala Devi Shaktipeeth
Also located in Hoogly district is the Shrinkhala Devi Shaktipeeth, where the stomach of Maa Sati had fallen. This is among the 18 Maha Shaktipeeths. It is now unfortunately a disputed site as an Islamic minaret is built on the site of the temple, and nobody is allowed to enter the precincts.
Standing outside the walls, as my eyes gazed wistfully at the surrounding ruins and the minaret built atop the temple, my heart ached that I was unable to enter the sacred ground which housed the temple of Adi Shakti.

However, as I took off my slippers and touched the walls in reverence, I knew that my heart had touched her presence.

Kalighat Shaktipeeth
In the heart of Kolkata city is Dakshina Kalika, one of the four most powerful Adi Shaktipeeths, the other three being Kamakhya in Guwahati, Bimala in Puri and Tara Tarini in Ganjam district of Odisha. I had first visited Kalighat in my childhood but have little memory of the temple. However my this visit’s memory, I know would never leave me till the day I leave this world. I will try to explain the reason if words can actually convey – the impact of Maa Kali’s eyes.

Even before my own eyes could take in her beautiful flower-decked visage, I could feel the power of her eyes almost tangibly knocking me down. The eyes were not just looking at me, but looking through me, stripping away all the falsities of my little self and my world, as I stood before her empty of everything, apart from the light of my soul.

Amidst all the pushing, jostling of the throng of devotees, at that electrifying moment, I was alone with her, wrapped in her timeless time. I am still there, where she had held me. Where else can I go?

Important info:
How to reach: All the above Shaktipeeths are a short drive from Kolkata city.

Accommodation: There are varied accommodation options across Kolkata city, for all budget categories. I was happy with my stay at Holiday Inn Airport, in the Rajarhat area.

Shaktipeeth guided tours are organised across West Bengal by India Beacons Sojourn. WhatsApp contact: Anubha (8585007393) / Sandeep (9903295920).

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’, ‘Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)