Chausath Yogini Temple, Hirapur: 64 manifestations of the divine feminine

For many years I have wanted to visit one of the ancient Chausath (64) Yogini temples in India. My recent visit to Bhubaneswar fulfilled my yearning. I have always been fascinated by the Yoginis, but knew very little about them, except for the fact that they are powerful manifestations of the divine feminine. Each Yogini is an incarnation of Shakti (Goddess Durga), and the temple in Hirapur, Bhubaneswar has Mahamaya as the presiding deity.

The temple is a short drive away from Bhubaneswar city centre and is located in serene and picturesque environs. There is a pond, Mahamaya Pushkarini Kund, in the vicinity, and the temple is ensconced in a well-kept garden. Surrounded by such natural beauty, the temple itself seemed a part of nature. This shouldn’t be a surprise considering that the daily rituals include worshipping the five elements of nature, that is earth, water, fire, sky, and ether. The 9th-century temple has also a deep connection with tantric traditions. Yogini temples are open air as it is believed that the Yoginis fly.

As I entered the gates, I saw a small Shiva temple on the left. There was a Shivlinga inside, while a statue of Vishnu was outside. There was a tree, under which people had kept countless metallic snakes of various sizes, probably for getting their wishes fulfilled. It was a fascinating sight.

A little ahead, at first glance, I was a little surprised that the sandstone circular open-air temple was not too big, contrary to what the photographs that I had seen earlier made me believe. It has a circumference of 27.4 m and 2.4 m in height. However, despite the limited space that the temple occupies, the innumerable sculptures, the deep-rooted meanings, and symbolism, are truly mind-boggling.

The circular temple has statues of the Navadurgas outside. The entrance to the temple is through a narrow opening and is guarded by statues of gatekeepers. The priest informed that their names are Chanda and Munda.

The inside walls of the sanctum are lined with 64 niches occupied by black granite statues of the Yoginis. Each Yogini has her vahana (mount). Occupying centrestage is Mahamaya who is worshipped every day by a group of priests. One of them informed me that people come here, particularly on Tuesdays and Saturdays, to worship and seek the blessings of the Yoginis to eradicate their problems.

The names of some of the 64 Yoginis are: Mahamaya and Mahalakshmi (on a lotus); Tara and Chandrika (both Yoginis stand on a corpse to signify detachment); Kali (on Shiva); Ganga (on a crocodile); Yamuna (on a tortoise) and Narmada (on an elephant); boar-faced Varahi (on a buffalo); Padmavati (on a snake); Vaishnavi (on Garuda); Kalratri (on a boar); Chinnamastaka (on a severed human head); Jalakamini (on a frog); Vikarali (on a dog); Kaumari, the power of God Kartikeya (on a peacock); Matangi or Shitala (on a donkey); Vindhyavalini (on a rat); Maheshvari (on a bull); Ghatavari (on a lion); Aditi (on a parrot); Ajita (on a mouse deer); Dhumavati (on a goose), and others. Some of the Yoginis like Chinnamastaka and Dhumavati are among the 10 Mahavidyas.

The statues of Yoginis surround a pavilion-like structure that, according to the priest, represented a Shivlinga, from which water flowed out through the entrance. This is called the Chandi Mandap which has sculptures of four Yoginis with their respective Bhairavas. The priest informed me that there was a statue of Shiva earlier, within the mandap.

To me, it seemed that Hirapur’s Chausath Yogini Temple is a powerful expression of cosmic existence – Consciousness (Shiva), surrounded by the various manifestations of Shakti, symbolising everything the universe encompasses and beyond. The statues are not just crafted in stone but are living energies – the 64 aspects through which the Universal Mother wants us to understand how we are connected to her vast creation, and discover our true self.

Important info:

How to reach: Chausath Yogini Temple in Hirapur is a short drive from Bhubaneswar airport and city centre.
Accommodation: There are many accommodation options in Bhubaneswar for different budget categories.

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’, and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)