The Soul Energy
Sacred Journeys. Soul Tales. Energy Healing
Maa Baglamukhi Temple: Powerful Tantrik Siddhapeeth in Kangra, near Dharamshala
Jwala Devi, Bajreshwari Devi, Chamunda Devi Temples: Shaktipeeths in Kangra, Himachal
Among the sacred abodes of the Goddess in the Himalayas are the three powerful Shaktipeeths in Kangra, Himachal Pradesh. All these Shaktipeeths are a short drive from Dharamshala, which is where most pilgrims stay to visit the nearby Devi temples.
Our journey, which started from Chandigarh to Naina Devi Temple in Bilaspur, then to Maa Chintpurni’s Temple in Una district (read https://thesoulenergy.com/naina-devi-and-chintpurni-shaktipeeths-a-pilgrimage-to-himachals-devi-temples/), continued to the beautiful Kangra Valley, where the first Shaktipeeth we visited was Jwala Devi Temple, popularly known as Jwalamukhi Mata.
Jwala Devi Shaktipeeth
Located 50 km from Dharamshala, this is the site where Goddess Sati’s tongue is believed to have fallen, and continues to manifest as the eternal blue flame. The temple complex is vast, and the easiest way to reach it is to hire a local auto from the parking lot for outside vehicles.
There is no idol of the goddess in the temple; all pilgrims have darshan of the flames that appear from rock fissures. It is as if the goddess herself appears in her mystical fiery form to reaffirm our faith. The nine flames that appear through the rocks represent the nine forms of the goddess – Mahakali, Mahalakshmi, Mahasaraswati, Annapurna, Chandi, Hinglaj, Vindhyavasini, Ambika and Anji Devi.
It is believed that the first temple was originally built by Raja Bhumi Chand and was later renovated by the Pandavas. There are many stories associated with the temple, the most famous being how Mughal Emperor Akbar had made many unsuccessful attempts to extinguish the flames and had to return disappointed, unable to do so.
One of the highlights in the temple complex is Gorakh Dibbi, where Baba Gorakhnath, who was a staunch devotee of the goddess, performed his sadhana. Pilgrims throng to this small temple to witness the astonishing sight of a divine flame appearing from water.
Near the main temple is a pink-coloured domed building called ‘Shaiya Bhavan’, which is a resting place of the goddess. There is a bed for the goddess to sleep during the night, and in the morning a mystical happening is witnessed – folds are found on the bedsheet as if someone has slept on it. During the day, devotees are allowed to sit around the bed and soak in the peaceful environs of the place where the goddess rests every night.
Bajreshwari Devi Shaktipeeth
About 20 km from Dharamshala is the Bajreshwari Devi Shaktipeeth in Kangra (Nagarkot), which is mentioned among the 51 Shaktipeeths, and is an important temple in North India. The left breast of Maa Sati fell here, and the goddess is worshipped in the form of a pindi (sacred stone). The temple is also known as Kangra Devi Temple and Vajreshwari Devi Temple, dedicated to Goddess Vajreshwari, a fierce form of Maa Durga. Vajreshwari is derived from the word “Vajra”, meaning thunderbolt.
To reach the main temple, one has to negotiate one’s way through the narrow alleys of the market in Kangra. It is quite a walk and can be a challenge for elderly pilgrims. However, on reaching the sacred space of the temple complex, the peaceful and uplifting atmosphere makes one feel rejuvenated spiritually, mentally and physically.
As I joined the queue leading to the sanctum sanctorum, I was amazed to see the life-sized brass statues of four lions facing the goddess. The whole atmosphere exuded a powerful energy that is synonymous with the divine feminine.
Festivals like Navratri and Makar Sankranti draw huge crowds to Bajreshwari Devi Shaktipeeth.
Locals also call the temple Nagarkot Dham, and there are many famous legends associated with it. Some say the body of the demon king Jalandhar was buried here. According to another legend, it was here that the goddess applied butter on her wounds following her fierce battle with the demon Mahishasur. The temple itself was renowned for its wealth in ancient times and was looted by Mohammed Ghazni during his invasion of Kangra. A few centuries later, the structure was damaged by Feroze Shah Tughlaq. The devastating earthquake of Kangra in 1905 destroyed the temple, and it was rebuilt in 1930.
Chamunda Devi Shaktipeeth
A short distance away, on the banks of the Baner river, is the temple of Chamunda Devi, another fierce form of Goddess Durga. The temple is famous as Shri Chamunda Nandikeshwar Dham and has the unique aspect of being an abode of both Shakti (Maa Chamunda) and Shiva (known as Nandikeshwar here). Nandikeshwar Mahadev’s temple is located in a cave-like structure near the main temple.
Maa Chamunda is known to have slain the demons Chanda and Munda, and her temple here has ancient tantrik roots.
One of the highlights of the vast and beautiful temple complex is the sacred pond, which has many sculptures of deities, the most prominent being a Shiva statue. Apart from taking a bath in the sacred pond, there are facilities for boating. The whole area around the pond has been beautified so that families can come, seek the blessings of the goddess and other deities, and spend a few hours rejuvenating in the peaceful temple complex.
Important info:
How to reach: Kangra Airport, also known as Gaggal Airport, is located 15 km from Dharamshala. Chandigarh is about 6 hrs drive away and the best option to start the journey if one is visiting all the Shaktipeeths in Himachal.
Accommodation: Varied categories of hotels are available in Dharamshala, as per one’s budget.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’, Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)
Naina Devi and Chintpurni Shaktipeeths: A pilgrimage to Himachal’s Devi temples
The state of Himachal Pradesh is a blessed land that is home to five powerful Shaktipeeths, among the 52 across India and a few neighbouring countries. The Himachal Shaktipeeths are: Naina Devi, Maa Chintpurni, Jwala Devi, Bajreshwari Devi, and Chamunda Devi. And of course, Maa Baglamukhi Temple, an important Tantrik Siddhapeeth that draws devotees from across the country.
The Yatra of Himachal Shaktipeeths is a true calling to the devotees of the Devi, the all-powerful Universal Mother, who wants her children to come and connect with her energy at her sacred abodes in the Himalayas.
This blog post is the first in the series on Shakti temples in Himachal.
Naina Devi Shaktipeeth
We started our journey early in the morning from Chandigarh, which is at a distance of about 105 km from Naina Devi Temple. It took us about 2.5 hours to reach Bilaspur district, where the temple is located on a hilltop. En route, we passed the famous Anandpur Sahib Gurudwara, one of the most sacred sites of Sikhism.
There are three ways to reach Naina Devi Temple – trekking up the hill (which most pilgrims do), taking the ropeway or driving. Beautiful views of Gobind Sagar Lake and the surrounding countryside prepare the pilgrims for an uplifted spiritual experience at the temple.
Whether one takes the ropeway or goes by car, everyone has to walk the last 70-80 steps. Dolis are available for the elderly, but one has to negotiate the price well. For my mother’s doli, we paid about Rs 1200.
We found the darshan queues to be well organised in the temple. As I was travelling with my octogenarian mother, we were made to comfortably sit in a separate hall and join a shorter queue.
This is the place where Maa Sati’s eyes had fallen, and when we had darshan of the divine mother, the most powerful feature was her eyes, which seared through and touched my heart. It was as if something very deep and primordial had connected with the core of my being.
Just behind the main sanctum sanctorum walls was a small shrine of Maa Kali, in all her dark majesty, with the same beautiful eyes. Behind the temple is also the Chausath Yogini Kund.
There is, of course, a Shiva temple here with a Shivlinga and a statue of Ganesha. The grilled door was shut, so I could not enter this temple.
Occupying a prominent place in the temple complex was a huge Yagna Kund where priests were performing the necessary rituals and blessing the pilgrims. It is believed that this Akhand Hawan Kund was established by the tenth Guru of Sikhs, Shri Govind Singh Ji.
The sacred atmosphere of the temple combined with the Yagna, chanting and the astonishingly scenic views created a vibrant, powerful energy that I am sure all pilgrims take home with them as the Great Mother’s blessings.
Maa Chintpurni Shaktipeeth
Another 2.5-hour drive and we reached Maa Chintpurni’s temple in the Una district by late afternoon. Dedicated to Mata Chhinnamastika, one of the ten Mahavidyas, this temple is where people come to seek blessings from the goddess and give up their worries (chinta) and sorrows. Some people say Maa Sati’s feet fell here, while others believe that it is her forehead.
Mata Chhinnamastika, who symbolises the ultimate self-sacrifice and cosmic balance through her fierce form, is a compassionate mother who shares her life-blood with those who can look beyond the illusions and surrender to her. She also symbolises the awakening of the Kundalini energy.
For those, primarily elderly people, who are unable to climb the steps, the authorities here have arranged for a lift. For a charge of Rs 50, one can reach the precincts within a couple of minutes.
Maa Chintpurni was so beautifully decked with flowers, and I felt amazed seeing her unusual form.
There was a festive atmosphere at the temple, with devotees chanting bhajans to the goddess, having ice cream as prasad, and there was a lot of joyous elevated energy. It truly seemed that here people surrender their worries to the all-powerful goddess, who showers her compassion on all souls who come seeking her blessings.
Important info:
How to reach: Naina Devi Shaktipeeth is about 105 km from Chandigarh by road. Maa Chintpurni Shaktipeeth is approximately 113 km from Naina Devi Temple.
Accommodation: For Naina Devi Temple, there are many budget stay options near Anandpur Sahib. Similarly, budget hotels are available near Maa Chintpurni Shaktipeeth for those who want to spend a night near the temple.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’, Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)
Navagraha Temples: Kumbakonam’s cosmic heritage
The town of Kumbakonam, in the Thanjavur district of Tamil Nadu, is famous for its many temples. One of the greatest and most distinctive spiritual attractions of this temple town is the cluster of Navagraha temples, which are found nowhere in the country. These ancient temples attract pilgrims throughout the year seeking blessings and warding off the effects of unfavourable planetary positions/ doshas.
While the eight temples (Surya/Sun, Chandra/Moon, Buddha/Mercury, Mangal/Mars, Shukra/Venus, Guru/Jupiter, Rahu and Ketu) are within the area of Kumbakonam and one-and-a-half days is at least needed to complete the journey, the seventh, Sri Darbharanyeswara Temple of the planet Saturn, is located in Thirunallar near Pondicherry, and would take an additional day.
Many of these temples are quite a distance from each other, but our driver Hanumanth, who had frequented these places before, was able to cover them in the shortest possible time through the best routes. The hotel staff was also helpful in guiding us and providing a map for the journey.
Agniswarar Temple (Shukra – Venus)
We started our Navagraha temples yatra with Agniswarar Temple in Kanjanur. It is the main temple of Shukra, the planet Venus, in India. This was the first Navagraha temple I visited. What I found most fascinating here is that the primary deity is Shiva. Later, as the yatra continued, I realised that in most Navagraha temples, Shiva is the presiding deity, representing the respective planet. So we were actually visiting not just temples dedicated to the nine planets, but so many Shiva temples.
Pilgrims come to this temple to do rituals for Shukra dosha, hoping for wealth and prosperity, marriage-related concerns, and issues with children.
Sadly, this ancient temple and its surroundings are in a state of disrepair and need some serious restoration.
Suryanar Kovil (Surya – Sun)
At a short distance from Agniswarar Temple is the Suryanar Kovil, the temple dedicated to the Sun God. Here, the presiding deity is Surya Narayan, and the beautiful idol truly makes every pilgrim feel the light and effulgence of the Sun.
Located in the small town of Aduthurai, this temple has a lot of significance for those seeking various siddhis. The temple area is not too large, like most other Navagraha temples, however, it draws many believers because of its power and significance.
It is one of the rare Navagraha temples where Shiva is not the presiding deity. Interestingly, it is also the only one that has shrines of the other eight planets.
Arulmigu Naganatha Swamy Temple (Rahu)
The presiding deity of this temple in the village of Thirunageswaram is Shiva as Naganathar, who it is believed is constantly worshipped by the planet Rahu, and the latter in turn continues to bless all those who visit here. The shrine dedicated to Rahu, where he is depicted (not as a serpent) but in human form along with his two consorts, Nagavalli and Nagakanni, is a smaller enclosure compared to the other magnificent temples of Shiva, Goddess Parvati, and Goddess Lakshmi.
Arulmigu Naganatha Swamy Temple is also famous as Rahu Sthalam. It is known for a miracle during Rahu Kalam (the inauspicious time) every day when the abhishekam done on the Shiva linga, the milk turns blue and becomes white again when it flows off the lingam.
This 10th-century temple is also known to have the most powerful serpentine energy and was the home of ancient serpent worship. The name Nagnathar for Shiva means Lord of the Serpents, and serpents like Adishesha and Karkotaka are believed to have done penance here.
The complex occupies a huge area with a vast sacred tank, majestic gopurams, and several individual temples. We arrived here late afternoon, and it was interesting to see the big parking space occupied by thronging families, with children and elders … hundreds of people paying their respects to different deities.
Kailasanathar Temple (Chandra – Moon)
From Thirunageswaram Rahu temple, it is an hour’s drive to Kailasanathar Temple in the village of Thingalur. Dedicated to the moon / Chandra, it is also called Chandiranaar Temple. By the time we reached here, it was already dark. Devoid of crowds, the peaceful environs of this temple were truly soothing, as if the moon God had bestowed his calming blessings on those who stepped inside the precincts. Here also, not surprisingly, the main deity was Shiva, and there was a small shrine dedicated to Chandra.
I felt a magical calmness and at peace in this beautiful temple, which was smaller in size and area than most of the other temples I had visited earlier that day. It was beautiful to take this quiet energy back with me from the moon God’s temple. From the deity who rules the mind, I consider it a divine blessing.
Vaitheeswaran Koil (Mangal – Mars)
The town of Vaitheeswaran Koil is famous for being the home of Nadi palmleaf astrologers, many of whom can be found around the centre point, the temple of planet Mars, from which the town derives its name.
At Vaitheeswaran Koil, the presiding deity Shiva is worshipped as the “God of healing”, Vaidyanathar or Vaitheeswaran. As soon as I entered the temple, I could feel the powerful energy within the ancient walls. There were many pilgrims inside, but we had a peaceful darshan of the Shivlinga.
This majestic temple also draws thousands of pilgrims who come here to seek solutions for victory over enemies and property / land-related issues by pleasing Mars. The planet is closely associated with problems related to Vastu dosha, construction of houses / factories, issues concerning ancestral properties, etc. To pacify the powerful planet and help people with these issues, a special yagna is conducted by priests in the temple where bricks are offered to Mars. These bricks can be taken home by people who need them as blessings for land-related problems.
Swetharanyeswarar Swamy Temple (Budha – Mercury)
The Swetharanyeswarar Swamy Temple, located in Thiruvenkadu, is dedicated to the planet Mercury. The sprawling temple complex was peaceful when I walked in through the beautiful West Gopuram. There was a special puja going on in the main temple, and the sound of chanting reverberated in the atmosphere. Some local devotees were also offering prasad to everyone.
The presiding deities here are Lord Shiva as Swetharanyeswarar and Maa Parvati as Goddess Brahma Vidya Nayaki. The temple is famous for its fierce form of Shiva, the Aghoramurthy, and Nandi, who has nine scars.
Here, there are also many temples dedicated to different deities, one of the prominent being the temple of Lord Murugan. There is also a shrine of the planet Mercury. Devotees come here to pacify Budha dosha caused by the affliction of the planet Mercury and seek respite from problems related to education, business, intellect, and communication.
Though the temple was built by the Chola kings, it traces its origins almost 3000 years ago. It has three ancient water tanks named after the three eyes of Shiva – the Surya (Sun) Kulam, the Sama (Moon) Kulam, and the Agni (fire) Kulam.
I felt truly uplifted and at peace in this beautiful temple complex and wished I could spend more time and soak in the serene atmosphere.
Apatsahayesvarar Temple (Guru – Jupiter)
The Apatsahayesvarar Temple, in Alangudi, is famously known as Guru Sthalam, dedicated to the planet Jupiter. The presiding deity here is Lord Apatsahayesvarar, the manifestation of Shiva who rescues all devotees from danger. Goddess Parvati is worshipped here as Elavarkuzhali.
At the temple of the most benefic planet in the solar system, people do special rituals for good fortune, spiritual growth, success in education, and longevity by seeking the blessings of Lord Guru Bhagwan.
The resplendent idol of Guru Bhagwan is in the same temple as the lingam of Lord Apatsahayesvarar.
Sri Naganathaswamy Temple (Ketu)
Sri Naganathaswamy Temple, located in Keezhaperumpallam, is a Ketu Sthalam. Here also, the presiding deity is Shiva manifesting as Naganathaswamy, while his divine consort, Goddess Parvati, is known as Soundaryanayaki.
Ketu is the “shadow planet” with strong karmic influences that can take people to great spiritual heights. In this temple, Ketu Bhagwan is shown with the head of a five-headed snake and a human body, praying to Shiva.
He is offered here lily flowers, horse gram, and multi-coloured clothes by people who seek relief from Ketu dosha. Primarily, people come here to do rituals to alleviate problems related to marriage, children, illnesses, Naga dosha, and issues concerned with a previous birth.
Sri Darbharanyeswara Temple (Shani – Saturn)
Located in Thirunallar, in the Karaikal district of Puducherry, Sri Darbharanyeswara Temple attracts pilgrims from far and near who come to pay their respects at the shrine of Sri Saneeswara Bhagwan.
The primary deity here is also Shiva as Sri Darbharanyeswara.
It is believed to be the place where, due to the blessings of Sri Dharbaranyeswarar on King Nala, Shani was unable to cause difficult circumstances in the king’s life. The story goes that afflicted by Shani’s gaze during Sade Dati, the king lost his kingdom, his wife and children, and had to face severe hardships. Sage Bharadwaja advised Nala to take a bath in the sacred tank and pray to Sri Dharbaranyeswara. The king did as told, and immediately after completing the prayer, Shani’s gaze was lifted, and he was rid of his misfortunes.
Therefore, people throng this temple seeking respite from Shani dosha. Also, bathing in the holy tank here, famously known as Nala Theertham, is believed to wash away the malefic impact of Shani dosha.
Important info:
How to reach: The nearest airport is Tiruchirappalli International Airport, located at a distance of about 100 km. Kumbakonam is also well connected by railways to different parts of the country.
Accommodation: Cholaa Dynasty
Tour operator: Hindu Devayala Yatra (Phone: +91 7995996555)
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)
Pancha Bhoota Sthalam: 5 elements Shiva temples
Also known as the ‘Kailasa of the South’, the site of the temple against the backdrop of a hill with gigantic white statues of Shiva and Parvati is a wonderful sight to behold. It is located on the banks of the scenic Swarnamukhi River.
After having darshan of the Vayu Lingam, all pilgrims have darshan of other deities within the temple complex – Goddess Gnana Prasunambika Devi, Ganesha, Kartikeya with his wives, Bhairava and the Navagrahas. All through the year, in fact, the temple attracts people from far and near for the Rahu-Ketu puja.
The drive from Tirupati to Kanchipuram (110 km) is about two and a half hours. En route is the must visit Tiruttani Murugan Temple, at a distance of 67 km from Tirupati – this temple is among the six sacred abodes of Lord Murugan.
Ekambareswarar Temple in Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu, is a vast complex with multiple gates (gopurams) and ample parking facilities. The temple itself is a sight to behold with beautiful carvings and sculptures. Maa Parvati created the clay lingam and worshipped it here. As we made our way through the long queue of devotees to have a darshan of Lord Shiva’s Prithvi Lingam, representing the earth element, our eyes were mesmerised by the intricately carved pillars of the ancient temple. Both the general darshan and special darshan (Rs 50) lines are long; the latter gives a closer access to the dazzling garbhagriha.
Not to be missed within the temple complex are the Sahasra Lingam (1008 Shiv lingas) and the 3500-year-old mango tree. The temple tank itself is huge and has a mandapam.
Located at the base of the sacred Arunachala Hill, Arunachalesvara / Annamalaiyar Temple is where Annamalaiyar (Shiva) resides as Agni Lingam … the fire element … with Unnamulai Amman (Goddess Parvati), the Agni Yoni.
The temple is an architectural marvel, and is believed to represent the human body – the roof with 21,600 tiles (the number of breaths a human being takes in a day), and the 72,000 nails corresponding with the number of subtle energy channels within a body. Also, like a human body, the temple has nine gopurams (entrance gates).
The pilgrimage, however, cannot be complete without visiting the Sri Sivagami Amman Temple within the vast 40-acre temple complex. Dedicated to Maa Parvati, it is an important place of Shakti worship. The beautiful dark vigrah of the Universal Mother was mesmerising and powerful, and I could feel profoundly peaceful and happy as I made my way out, carrying with me a lifetime of memories.
Dedicated to the element of water, it is not surprising that the self-manifested lingam here is partially submerged, with a perennial spring constantly flowing under the sanctum sanctorum. I could constantly hear the sound of a running stream as I made my way to the garbhagriha, which had a very narrow opening. Inside, there was just enough space for five-six people, and the panditji was kind enough to allow us blessings of the sacred aarti.
Maya Devi, Mansa Devi, Chandi Devi temples: 3 Shaktipeeths in Haridwar
The sacred city of Haidwar is the gateway to Chardham Yatra in Uttarakhand. For most pilgrims, a necessary part of their journey is a visit to the three Shaktipeeths in Haridwar, either on their way to Chardham or after returning from the higher Himalayas. Haridwar is renowned for its Panch Tirth (five important pilgrimages) within the city, among which are the two Shaktipeeths – Bilwa Tirtha (Mansa Devi temple) and Neel Parvat (Chandi Devi temple). Maya Devi Shaktipeeth is in the heart of the city near Birla Ghat.
Maya Devi Shaktipeeth
Located within the Juna Akhada precincts, Maya Devi temple is a peaceful sanctuary that calls all seekers within its divine embrace. One can feel the beautiful, loving energy of the goddess as soon as one steps inside the temple. Among the 51 Shaktipeeths where different parts of Maa Sati’s body have fallen, this is where her heart is said to be enshrined. It is not surprising that those seekers who come here feel this all-encompassing love as soon as they connect with her energy. It is also said that along with her heart, Maa Sati’s navel also fell here.
Maya Devi is the presiding deity of Haridwar, as earlier the city was known as Mayapuri. This ancient Shaktipeeth dates back to the 11th century. Goddess Shakti in this temple has three aspects – Maa Maya in the centre, Maa Kali facing left, and Maa Kamakhya facing right.
Prominently displayed on the walls are photographs of the Das Mahavidyas – Kali, Tara, Tripura Sundari, Bhuvaneshvari, Bhairavi, Chhinnamasta, Dhumavati, Bagalamukhi, Matangi and Kamalatmika. The Bhairavs of the Mahavidyas are also worshipped along with them, so one can find many Shivlings within the temple. I could also see a board featuring the Kaal Bhairav Ashtkam.
This was my second visit to the Maya Devi temple after many years, but this time, being more aware of Maa Shakti’s various aspects, my experience was more profound and beautiful.
Mansa Devi Shaktipeeth
Located at the top of the Shivalik Hills is Bilwa Tirth, popularly known as the Mansa Devi temple in Haridwar. Thousands of people visit the Shaktipeeth every day. While many take the 3 km trek to the top of the mountain, others like me opt for the ropeway or Udan Khatola. It is advisable to buy a combined ropeway ticket for both Mansa Devi temple and Chandi Devi temple from the ticket counter here.
The ropeway ride and the view from the top of the mountain are absolutely stunning. The temple complex is huge, and it takes quite some time to navigate through the queues formed by the throng of devotees.
One of the most revered and powerful Shaktipeeths in this part of the country, Maa Sati’s forehead is believed to have fallen here. It is said that Mansa Devi emerged from Lord Shiva’s mind, and hence the name Mansa (originating from the word Manas, meaning mind, intellect). People come here to get their wishes fulfilled, and the goddess in her infinite kindness blesses them. There are many smaller shrines within, and when one finally reaches the silver gates of the sanctum sanctorum, having a glimpse of Maa Mansa’s beautiful murti is a sacred wish fulfilled for all the pilgrims.
After having darshan, while waiting for the cable car, the beautiful views further uplifted me spiritually and made me think how most of the Shaktipeeths are located in surroundings that make all pilgrims strengthen their connection with Mother Nature, who is none other than Shakti herself.
Chandi Devi Shaktipeeth
Chandi Devi Shaktipeeth is at the top of the Neel Parvat in the eastern Shivalik Hill range. The fierce form of Shakti, Maa Chandi, had slayed the demon kings Shumbha and Nishumbha. The place where she had rested after the ferocious battle is where the temple came up. Though the present temple was built here about a hundred years ago, the main murti of Maa Chandi is believed to have been installed here in the 8th century by Adi Shankaracharya.
Chandi Devi temple is also known as a Siddhapeeth, where pilgrims get their desires fulfilled. While I saw many people opting to trek to Mansa Devi temple, most pilgrims here had taken the cable car, probably as the climb was more difficult. The ropeway takes pilgrims to the top of the mountain, after which there are still some steps to reach the temple.
Like the Mansa Devi temple, there are multiple shrines here, and it is a big temple complex. Standing in queue with hundreds of other devotees, when I reached the door of the sanctum sanctorum, the benign vermillion covered face of the goddess seemed so simple and earthy. I was almost taken aback by the different kind of energy I felt here.
As the Chandi Devi temple is away from the chaotic lanes of Haridwar, one can spend some time here soaking in the beautiful surrounding views and connecting with sacred nature in a peaceful environment.
Important info:
How to reach: Haridwar is well connected by the Indian Railways. It does not have its own airport; the nearest is Dehradun’s Jolly Grant Airport, at a distance of about 35 km.
Accommodation: There are many stay options in Haridwar for various budget categories – from ashrams and homestays to boutique properties near the Ganga river.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories, ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)
Dhari Devi temple: Garhwal’s powerful Siddhapeeth & Shaktipeeth
The very first time I had heard of Dhari Devi (a form of Goddess Kali) was after the Kedarnath floods in 2013, when the story of the powerful goddess’s wrath became synonymous with the catastrophe. We are all aware that the day her idol was shifted for dam construction, the same day the floods played havoc. The guardian goddess of the Char Dhams (Kedarnath, Badrinath, Yamunotri and Gangotri) in Garhwal, Uttarakhand came back to her temple on the Alaknanda River near Srinagar, and since then, no further attempts have been made to remove her presence from there.
In 2019, during my Char Dham Yatra in Uttarakhand, we were shown her temple from the road above by our driver, but we never stopped to pay our respects. It was an incomplete Yatra in many ways, as even after waiting for almost 2 days at Guptakashi helipad (with my septuagenarian mother), we were unable to reach Kedarnath. This pain of an unfinished Yarta remained, and for six long years, I would often wonder why I couldn’t go to Kedarnath. In the intervening years, I was blessed to complete the darshan of 11 Jyotirlingas; only Kedarnath remained.
In October 2025, when I again tried to visit Kedarnath, I made a necessary inclusion in the itinerary – the Dhari Devi temple. I somehow felt that, without her blessings, my pilgrimage could not be complete. Following a nail-biting return journey from Kedarnath amidst a delayed helicopter ride due to rain and snowfall, I was finally at the gates of the Dhari Devi temple.
Both a Siddhapeeth and a Shaktipeeth (among the 108), this has always been considered a very mysterious temple. Her upper body is worshipped here as Dhari Devi, while the lower part is enshrined at Kalimath temple near Rudraprayag.
After a long walk down the pathway to reach the temple, even before entering the precincts, I was mesmerised by the serene surroundings in the midst of the mighty Alaknanda River. No wonder the goddess never wants to leave this beautiful abode she has chosen for herself.
The temple was most unusual and unlike any other I have been to. I was happy to see there wasn’t much of a crowd inside. Everything was so well organised, and there was a short queue of devotees giving their offerings peacefully to a priest.
Under a golden canopy, the astonishingly beautiful dark face of Dhari Devi was hypnotic. She was wearing a silver crown and a large gold nose ring. It is said that her face changes appearance at different times of the day (child, young woman, old woman). I stood mesmerised for quite some time, before becoming aware of the other deities surrounding her – Ganesha, Bhairav Nath, 64 Yoginis, Chetrapal Adi Gan. Also prominent was the stone mountain backdrop of the sanctum sanctorum.
My heart overflowed with gratitude as I thanked Dhari Devi for enabling my Char Dham Yatra on her land. It had been a long wait for me, but I knew that, as per divine will, this was the chosen, right time.
Soaking in the wonderful atmosphere of the temple, I wanted to keep gazing at the goddess for the longest possible time.
My heart was full as I stepped outside the temple, and I felt beautifully complete. I might not get an opportunity to visit the temple again, but I know the blessings will remain with me through this lifetime and beyond.
Important info:
How to reach: Jolly Grant Airport in Dehradun is located about 125 km from Dhari Devi temple. The nearest railhead in Rishikesh, which is 115 km away. Private taxis and buses are available from both locations.
Accommodation: There are many stay options in Haridwar, Rishikesh and Dehradun for various budget categories.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)
Barsana’s Radha Rani Temple, Kirti Mandir: A Pilgrimage of Love
From the main arterial road in Barsana to the temple, I could see huge crowds everywhere, though it was not an important festival day or weekend. It is said that though lakhs of people reach Vrindavan, only a small percentage of them are able to go to Barsana. These people are those whom Radha Rani really calls and considers her own. So, I was happy to see so many people being bestowed by her grace and drawn by her call.
From the terrace of the temple, one could see far into the horizon; however, the calling was closer home – in everyone’s heart. It seemed not to be an outward pilgrimage to the goddess of love and devotion, but a stepping into the heart to feel her essence.
Kirti Mandir, located on the main road of the temple town, is a beautiful modern structure named after Radha Rani’s mother. This beautiful temple, which, like Vrindavan’s Prem Mandir, was envisioned by Jagadguru Shri Kripalu Ji Maharaj. The construction of this unique temple, which took 12 years to complete, was inaugurated in 2019. And has since then been drawing pilgrims to pay their obeisance to the presiding deity, Radha Rani, as a child, sitting on her mother’s lap. It is the only temple in the world that depicts her in this form. The other highlights include beautifully presented scenarios from her life – from Raas Leela and her sakhis to warming herself by the fire to playing a flute with Shri Krishna, and many others.
How to reach: Barsana is about an hour’s drive from Vrindavan. The nearest airports are Kheria Airport, Agra (55 km), and Indira Gandhi International Airport, New Delhi (147 km).
Accommodation: While there are some accommodation options in Barsana, most people prefer staying in Vrindavan and do a half-day trip to Barsana.
Nidhivan: Vrindavan’s Mystical Grove
I had first heard of Nidhivan a few decades ago and have since then been fascinated by its many mystical stories – a protected grove where Radha and Krishna continue to visit every night for their rasleela (dance of divine love) … the tulsi trees that turn into maidens of Braj … the many visible signs of their presence found even today … a place forbidden for people after sunset, it is believed that even animals and birds leave the sacred forest.
After a long wait of many years, I felt fortunate to recently visit this divine playground of Radha and Krishna, in the heart of Vrindavan. Nidhivan is located amidst the narrow bylanes of the temple town. The grove is cordoned off from the surrounding area and has a walkway through it so that pilgrims can experience the place and visit its temples without disturbing the natural habitat.
There are five temples located within Nidhivan. The first being Banke Bihari Prakat Sthal, a little temple where Swami Haridas, through his deep devotion, found the buried idol, which was later shifted and installed at the magnificent Banke Bihari temple in 1864. The beautiful idol of child Krishna is unique as it is in the Tribhanga pose (bent at three places).
When Radha and Krishna get tired after their divine dance every night, they rest in Rang Mahal in Nidhivan. A beautiful glittering temple where the bed is prepared every day for the divine couple, betel leaves and sweets are kept for them. In the morning, mysteriously, the bed is found in disarray with rumpled sheets as if someone had slept on it, and some of the food is found eaten.
A highlight in Nidhivan is the Ras Mandal – depicting where the rasleela takes place. This is where one can find the statues of the asht-sakhis (the eight closest friends) of Radharani, those who are with the divine couple every night during their sacred play. Along with them, it is the ubiquitous, unusually shaped tulsi trees found throughout the grove that actually depict the Gopikas, who are believed to turn into their original forms as maidens of Braj during the night and revert back as trees once the dance is over.
Another temple is of Bansichor Radha Rani, where the divine consort of Krishna is holding his flute after stealing it. She was upset that he spent too much time with the flute without giving attention to her, so she took it away. This little temple is believed to be the only one in the world where Radha Rani is found holding a flute.
The Samadhi Sthal of Swami Haridas is also located within Nidhivan. The 15th- century mystic poet, musician, and saint, who is renowned for his devotional renditions of Sri Krishna, is the founder of the Haridas school of mysticism. There is also a belief that Swami Haridas was actually a reincarnation of one of the asht-sakhis, Lalita Sakhi. During his lifetime, the saint had spent most of his time in Nidhivan, immersing himself in the deep divine love of Radha-Krishna.
Even today, many pilgrims who visit the sacred forest of Nidhivan, come with the hope of being touched by this mystical play and experience in some way the all-encompassing love that can transform the inner core of their being, making them aware of their own divinity.
Important info:
How to reach: Vrindavan station is well connected by the Indian Railways. The nearest airports are Kheria Airport, Agra (55 km), and Indira Gandhi International Airport, New Delhi (147 km).
Accommodation: There are many ashrams, dharmashalas, and hotels of various budget categories in Vrindavan. I had a pleasant stay at Brij Eternity, Vrindavan by Leisure Hotels.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories, ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’, and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)
Katyayani Devi Shaktipeeth, Vrindavan: An Abode of Divine Grace
For every pilgrim, the temple town of Vrindavan is suffused with the devotional energy of Radha and Krishna. People come here to be swept away by this great spirit of love and feel a part of the divine play that this land has represented for thousands of years. However, not many people know that the place where Radha and Krishna’s divine play takes place is also an important abode of Shakti – one of the 51 important Shaktipeeths is located among the many bylanes of Vrindavan, attracting seekers from across the country.
Katyayani Devi Shaktipeeth, also known as Uma Devi Shaktipeeth, is the location where the hair of Goddess Sati is said to have fallen. The goddess here is specially worshipped by young girls who pray to her to bless them with a good groom. It is believed that the maidens of Braj who wanted Krishna as their husband sought the blessings of Katyayani Devi. The tradition of worship continues.
The temple here was built more than a century ago by Kesavanand Maharaj, an ardent devotee of the goddess, who was instructed by her in a dream to construct a temple in Vrindavan, at the site where her hair had fallen.
After a precarious auto ride through the bylanes of Vrindavan, we were dropped off at the entrance to the temple. Why precarious? We were warned by our guide that the many monkeys that abound in this temple town have a penchant for snatching spectacles, mobiles, and bags. So everywhere we had to keep the specs and mobile inside the purse and sling it across so that it could not be snatched easily. There were so many monkeys outside the temple that the auto driver kept guard, so that our footwear was not taken away.
On reaching here, I found that the Shaktipeeth was much less crowded than many other temples in Vrindavan that draw huge crowds every day. It was evening time and we had to wait a while for the main entrance to open. The timings are 7 am to 11 am (morning) and 5.30 pm to 8 pm (evening).
As soon as the big entrance door opened, we walked into the inner courtyard that opened to the beautiful marble temple of Katyayani Devi, and the Shiva temple. The serene environment filled me with peace. When I stepped inside the temple to have darshan of the goddess, I was stunned by the resplendent beauty of her form. I could feel that great beauty reflecting in my heart as my head bowed down in reverence.
After doing parikrama of Maa Katyayani’s idol, I went to the Bhairav temple, and though it was closed, I could have darshan of the Shivlinga from outside. Bhuteshwar Mahadev is the Bhairav of Katyayani Devi, and is known to protect the city from negative entities.
Outside, we found that our auto driver had successfully managed to protect our slippers from the band of monkeys. This was followed by another cautious auto ride, clutching our possessions, as we headed to the next temple.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)