Varahi Temple, Chaurasi: Ancient abode of a Tantrik goddess near Puri

The state of Odisha is renowned worldwide for its ancient temples that attract both serious seekers and curious visitors. While many of these temples have become important pilgrim sites through the ages, there are a few that are lesser known and only attract those people who understand the significance and make a conscious effort to visit and seek out the deity’s blessings. Among the latter category is the 9th-century Varahi (Barahi) Devi temple in Chaurasi, about 27 km from Konark.

The temple is an Archaeological Survey of India-protected monument set in a landscaped garden that truly accentuates the astounding architectural beauty of the structure. The main temple itself is not so big, however, its fascinating sculptures, the serene environment and the powerful energy of the deity leave a deep impact.

For quite some time I had been feeling this strong pull to visit a Varahi Devi temple, however, I never got the opportunity as they are nonexistent in my city, and most of the places I have been travelling recently. So I was thrilled to get an opportunity to visit Varahi Devi temple in Chaurasi, during my Odisha Shakti temple tour.

A little bit of online research indicated that the temple is open for only a few hours in the morning, and later in the evening. I had left my Puri hotel early in the morning and reached there within 1.5 hours. As the temple is not visited by too many people, the driver had to ask for directions in nearby villages. Driving through narrow lanes when we reached the temple, its beautiful gardens were a truly welcoming sight.

There was no one around, except for a few boys who had probably skipped college and were chatting in the shade of the temple. I understood that not many people came here, when a local man who noticed us, asked us to wait a few minutes for the temple priest who was on his way. I am glad we waited as the young priest came shortly on his motorcycle and happily shared with us details about the deity and the temple.

Varahi Devi, a manifestation of Shakti, emerged from the Varaha Avatar of Vishnu when he saved the earth from the depths of the primordial ocean. One of the Sapta Matrikas (the group of seven Mother Goddesses), she is the divine mother who has the head of a sow. All the Matrikas have the form of the male deities from which they had emerged.

Varahi Devi has been worshipped down the ages as a powerful Tantrik goddess and is known to provide great strength and protection to her seekers. In this temple, she is known as Matsya Varahi. She holds a fish in her right hand and a kapala (human skull) in her left. Her vahana (vehicle) is a buffalo.

No artificial light is allowed inside the temple, which comprises a small hall and the sanctum sanctorum. In semi-darkness, I could perceive the idol of the deity. Though I was fascinated by her unusual form, I felt a deep sense of peace in her presence. Strangely this stillness throbbed with an energy that is difficult to explain.

The architecture outside is no less fascinating. Facing the entrance of the temple is a short stone pillar with a sculpture on top covered by cloth, which the priest explained is of Maa Tara, who is offered Bali (animal sacrifice) on Dusshera. Varahi Devi is however offered fish.

The entrance is flanked by the sculptures of Nagas (snakes) on either side. In fact, there are more Naga sculptures around the temple, entwined around pillars. Among the intricate carvings and other prominent sculptures, are that of the Sun God, Suryanarayana, and Ganesha.

It was wonderful to see that the astoundingly beautiful stone structure had survived the ravages of time well, and is excellently taken care of by the Archaeological Survey of India. Strangely, while thousands of people visit Konark every day, this nearby hidden gem is unknown to most.

This fascinating temple with its powerful presence of a Mother Goddess and astonishing architecture should be on the must-visit itinerary of those who come to Puri and Konark. But like they say … the deity has to call you to be in her presence. I feel extremely fortunate to have heard that call.

Important info:

How to reach: Varahi Devi Temple in Chaurasi is about 47 km from Puri. The nearest airport is Bhubaneswar. Puri is well connected by train services.

Accommodation: There are multiple accommodation options in Puri, for all budget categories. I was staying at Pride Ananya Resort.

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)