Jwala Devi, Bajreshwari Devi, Chamunda Devi Temples: Shaktipeeths in Kangra, Himachal

Among the sacred abodes of the Goddess in the Himalayas are the three powerful Shaktipeeths in Kangra, Himachal Pradesh. All these Shaktipeeths are a short drive from Dharamshala, which is where most pilgrims stay to visit the nearby Devi temples.

Our journey, which started from Chandigarh to Naina Devi Temple in Bilaspur, then to Maa Chintpurni’s Temple in Una district (read https://thesoulenergy.com/naina-devi-and-chintpurni-shaktipeeths-a-pilgrimage-to-himachals-devi-temples/), continued to the beautiful Kangra Valley, where the first Shaktipeeth we visited was Jwala Devi Temple, popularly known as Jwalamukhi Mata.

Jwala Devi Shaktipeeth

Located 50 km from Dharamshala, this is the site where Goddess Sati’s tongue is believed to have fallen, and continues to manifest as the eternal blue flame. The temple complex is vast, and the easiest way to reach it is to hire a local auto from the parking lot for outside vehicles.

There is no idol of the goddess in the temple; all pilgrims have darshan of the flames that appear from rock fissures. It is as if the goddess herself appears in her mystical fiery form to reaffirm our faith. The nine flames that appear through the rocks represent the nine forms of the goddess – Mahakali, Mahalakshmi, Mahasaraswati, Annapurna, Chandi, Hinglaj, Vindhyavasini, Ambika and Anji Devi.

It is believed that the first temple was originally built by Raja Bhumi Chand and was later renovated by the Pandavas. There are many stories associated with the temple, the most famous being how Mughal Emperor Akbar had made many unsuccessful attempts to extinguish the flames and had to return disappointed, unable to do so.

One of the highlights in the temple complex is Gorakh Dibbi, where Baba Gorakhnath, who was a staunch devotee of the goddess, performed his sadhana. Pilgrims throng to this small temple to witness the astonishing sight of a divine flame appearing from water.

Near the main temple is a pink-coloured domed building called ‘Shaiya Bhavan’, which is a resting place of the goddess. There is a bed for the goddess to sleep during the night, and in the morning a mystical happening is witnessed – folds are found on the bedsheet as if someone has slept on it. During the day, devotees are allowed to sit around the bed and soak in the peaceful environs of the place where the goddess rests every night.

Bajreshwari Devi Shaktipeeth

About 20 km from Dharamshala is the Bajreshwari Devi Shaktipeeth in Kangra (Nagarkot), which is mentioned among the 51 Shaktipeeths, and is an important temple in North India. The left breast of Maa Sati fell here, and the goddess is worshipped in the form of a pindi (sacred stone). The temple is also known as Kangra Devi Temple and Vajreshwari Devi Temple, dedicated to Goddess Vajreshwari, a fierce form of Maa Durga. Vajreshwari is derived from the word “Vajra”, meaning thunderbolt.

To reach the main temple, one has to negotiate one’s way through the narrow alleys of the market in Kangra. It is quite a walk and can be a challenge for elderly pilgrims. However, on reaching the sacred space of the temple complex, the peaceful and uplifting atmosphere makes one feel rejuvenated spiritually, mentally and physically.

As I joined the queue leading to the sanctum sanctorum, I was amazed to see the life-sized brass statues of four lions facing the goddess. The whole atmosphere exuded a powerful energy that is synonymous with the divine feminine.

Festivals like Navratri and Makar Sankranti draw huge crowds to Bajreshwari Devi Shaktipeeth.

Locals also call the temple Nagarkot Dham, and there are many famous legends associated with it. Some say the body of the demon king Jalandhar was buried here. According to another legend, it was here that the goddess applied butter on her wounds following her fierce battle with the demon Mahishasur. The temple itself was renowned for its wealth in ancient times and was looted by Mohammed Ghazni during his invasion of Kangra. A few centuries later, the structure was damaged by Feroze Shah Tughlaq. The devastating earthquake of Kangra in 1905 destroyed the temple, and it was rebuilt in 1930.

Chamunda Devi Shaktipeeth

A short distance away, on the banks of the Baner river, is the temple of Chamunda Devi, another fierce form of Goddess Durga. The temple is famous as Shri Chamunda Nandikeshwar Dham and has the unique aspect of being an abode of both Shakti (Maa Chamunda) and Shiva (known as Nandikeshwar here). Nandikeshwar Mahadev’s temple is located in a cave-like structure near the main temple.

Maa Chamunda is known to have slain the demons Chanda and Munda, and her temple here has ancient tantrik roots.

One of the highlights of the vast and beautiful temple complex is the sacred pond, which has many sculptures of deities, the most prominent being a Shiva statue. Apart from taking a bath in the sacred pond, there are facilities for boating. The whole area around the pond has been beautified so that families can come, seek the blessings of the goddess and other deities, and spend a few hours rejuvenating in the peaceful temple complex.

Important info:
How to reach: Kangra Airport, also known as Gaggal Airport, is located 15 km from Dharamshala. Chandigarh is about 6 hrs drive away and the best option to start the journey if one is visiting all the Shaktipeeths in Himachal.

Accommodation: Varied categories of hotels are available in Dharamshala, as per one’s budget.

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’, Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)