Navagraha Temples: Kumbakonam’s cosmic heritage

The town of Kumbakonam, in the Thanjavur district of Tamil Nadu, is famous for its many temples. One of the greatest and most distinctive spiritual attractions of this temple town is the cluster of Navagraha temples, which are found nowhere in the country. These ancient temples attract pilgrims throughout the year seeking blessings and warding off the effects of unfavourable planetary positions/ doshas.

While the eight temples (Surya/Sun, Chandra/Moon, Buddha/Mercury, Mangal/Mars, Shukra/Venus, Guru/Jupiter, Rahu and Ketu) are within the area of Kumbakonam and one-and-a-half days is at least needed to complete the journey, the seventh, Sri Darbharanyeswara Temple of the planet Saturn, is located in Thirunallar near Pondicherry, and would take an additional day.

Many of these temples are quite a distance from each other, but our driver Hanumanth, who had frequented these places before, was able to cover them in the shortest possible time through the best routes. The hotel staff was also helpful in guiding us and providing a map for the journey.

Agniswarar Temple (Shukra – Venus)

We started our Navagraha temples yatra with Agniswarar Temple in Kanjanur. It is the main temple of Shukra, the planet Venus, in India. This was the first Navagraha temple I visited. What I found most fascinating here is that the primary deity is Shiva. Later, as the yatra continued, I realised that in most Navagraha temples, Shiva is the presiding deity, representing the respective planet. So we were actually visiting not just temples dedicated to the nine planets, but so many Shiva temples.

Pilgrims come to this temple to do rituals for Shukra dosha, hoping for wealth and prosperity, marriage-related concerns, and issues with children.

Sadly, this ancient temple and its surroundings are in a state of disrepair and need some serious restoration.

Suryanar Kovil (Surya – Sun)

At a short distance from Agniswarar Temple is the Suryanar Kovil, the temple dedicated to the Sun God. Here, the presiding deity is Surya Narayan, and the beautiful idol truly makes every pilgrim feel the light and effulgence of the Sun.

Located in the small town of Aduthurai, this temple has a lot of significance for those seeking various siddhis. The temple area is not too large, like most other Navagraha temples, however, it draws many believers because of its power and significance.

It is one of the rare Navagraha temples where Shiva is not the presiding deity. Interestingly, it is also the only one that has shrines of the other eight planets.

Arulmigu Naganatha Swamy Temple (Rahu)

The presiding deity of this temple in the village of Thirunageswaram is Shiva as Naganathar, who it is believed is constantly worshipped by the planet Rahu, and the latter in turn continues to bless all those who visit here. The shrine dedicated to Rahu, where he is depicted (not as a serpent) but in human form along with his two consorts, Nagavalli and Nagakanni, is a smaller enclosure compared to the other magnificent temples of Shiva, Goddess Parvati, and Goddess Lakshmi.

Arulmigu Naganatha Swamy Temple is also famous as Rahu Sthalam. It is known for a miracle during Rahu Kalam (the inauspicious time) every day when the abhishekam done on the Shiva linga, the milk turns blue and becomes white again when it flows off the lingam.

This 10th-century temple is also known to have the most powerful serpentine energy and was the home of ancient serpent worship. The name Nagnathar for Shiva means Lord of the Serpents, and serpents like Adishesha and Karkotaka are believed to have done penance here.

The complex occupies a huge area with a vast sacred tank, majestic gopurams, and several individual temples. We arrived here late afternoon, and it was interesting to see the big parking space occupied by thronging families, with children and elders … hundreds of people paying their respects to different deities.

Kailasanathar Temple (Chandra – Moon)

From Thirunageswaram Rahu temple, it is an hour’s drive to Kailasanathar Temple in the village of Thingalur. Dedicated to the moon / Chandra, it is also called Chandiranaar Temple. By the time we reached here, it was already dark. Devoid of crowds, the peaceful environs of this temple were truly soothing, as if the moon God had bestowed his calming blessings on those who stepped inside the precincts. Here also, not surprisingly, the main deity was Shiva, and there was a small shrine dedicated to Chandra.

I felt a magical calmness and at peace in this beautiful temple, which was smaller in size and area than most of the other temples I had visited earlier that day. It was beautiful to take this quiet energy back with me from the moon God’s temple. From the deity who rules the mind, I consider it a divine blessing.

Vaitheeswaran Koil (Mangal – Mars)

The town of Vaitheeswaran Koil is famous for being the home of Nadi palmleaf astrologers, many of whom can be found around the centre point, the temple of planet Mars, from which the town derives its name.

At Vaitheeswaran Koil, the presiding deity Shiva is worshipped as the “God of healing”, Vaidyanathar or Vaitheeswaran. As soon as I entered the temple, I could feel the powerful energy within the ancient walls. There were many pilgrims inside, but we had a peaceful darshan of the Shivlinga.

This majestic temple also draws thousands of pilgrims who come here to seek solutions for victory over enemies and property / land-related issues by pleasing Mars. The planet is closely associated with problems related to Vastu dosha, construction of houses / factories, issues concerning ancestral properties, etc. To pacify the powerful planet and help people with these issues, a special yagna is conducted by priests in the temple where bricks are offered to Mars. These bricks can be taken home by people who need them as blessings for land-related problems.

Swetharanyeswarar Swamy Temple (Budha – Mercury)

The Swetharanyeswarar Swamy Temple, located in Thiruvenkadu, is dedicated to the planet Mercury. The sprawling temple complex was peaceful when I walked in through the beautiful West Gopuram. There was a special puja going on in the main temple, and the sound of chanting reverberated in the atmosphere. Some local devotees were also offering prasad to everyone.

The presiding deities here are Lord Shiva as Swetharanyeswarar and Maa Parvati as Goddess Brahma Vidya Nayaki. The temple is famous for its fierce form of Shiva, the Aghoramurthy, and Nandi, who has nine scars.

Here, there are also many temples dedicated to different deities, one of the prominent being the temple of Lord Murugan. There is also a shrine of the planet Mercury. Devotees come here to pacify Budha dosha caused by the affliction of the planet Mercury and seek respite from problems related to education, business, intellect, and communication.

Though the temple was built by the Chola kings, it traces its origins almost 3000 years ago. It has three ancient water tanks named after the three eyes of Shiva – the Surya (Sun) Kulam, the Sama (Moon) Kulam, and the Agni (fire) Kulam.

I felt truly uplifted and at peace in this beautiful temple complex and wished I could spend more time and soak in the serene atmosphere.

Apatsahayesvarar Temple (Guru – Jupiter)

The Apatsahayesvarar Temple, in Alangudi, is famously known as Guru Sthalam, dedicated to the planet Jupiter. The presiding deity here is Lord Apatsahayesvarar, the manifestation of Shiva who rescues all devotees from danger. Goddess Parvati is worshipped here as Elavarkuzhali.

At the temple of the most benefic planet in the solar system, people do special rituals for good fortune, spiritual growth, success in education, and longevity by seeking the blessings of Lord Guru Bhagwan.

The resplendent idol of Guru Bhagwan is in the same temple as the lingam of Lord Apatsahayesvarar.

Sri Naganathaswamy Temple (Ketu)

Sri Naganathaswamy Temple, located in Keezhaperumpallam, is a Ketu Sthalam. Here also, the presiding deity is Shiva manifesting as Naganathaswamy, while his divine consort, Goddess Parvati, is known as Soundaryanayaki.

Ketu is the “shadow planet” with strong karmic influences that can take people to great spiritual heights. In this temple, Ketu Bhagwan is shown with the head of a five-headed snake and a human body, praying to Shiva.

He is offered here lily flowers, horse gram, and multi-coloured clothes by people who seek relief from Ketu dosha. Primarily, people come here to do rituals to alleviate problems related to marriage, children, illnesses, Naga dosha, and issues concerned with a previous birth.

Sri Darbharanyeswara Temple (Shani – Saturn)

Located in Thirunallar, in the Karaikal district of Puducherry, Sri Darbharanyeswara Temple attracts pilgrims from far and near who come to pay their respects at the shrine of Sri Saneeswara Bhagwan.

The primary deity here is also Shiva as Sri Darbharanyeswara.

It is believed to be the place where, due to the blessings of Sri Dharbaranyeswarar on King Nala, Shani was unable to cause difficult circumstances in the king’s life. The story goes that afflicted by Shani’s gaze during Sade Dati, the king lost his kingdom, his wife and children, and had to face severe hardships. Sage Bharadwaja advised Nala to take a bath in the sacred tank and pray to Sri Dharbaranyeswara. The king did as told, and immediately after completing the prayer, Shani’s gaze was lifted, and he was rid of his misfortunes.

Therefore, people throng this temple seeking respite from Shani dosha. Also, bathing in the holy tank here, famously known as Nala Theertham, is believed to wash away the malefic impact of Shani dosha.

Important info:

How to reach: The nearest airport is Tiruchirappalli International Airport, located at a distance of about 100 km. Kumbakonam is also well connected by railways to different parts of the country.

Accommodation: Cholaa Dynasty

Tour operator: Hindu Devayala Yatra (Phone: +91 7995996555)

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)