The Soul Energy
Sacred Journeys. Soul Tales. Energy Healing
Maya Devi, Mansa Devi, Chandi Devi temples: 3 Shaktipeeths in Haridwar
The sacred city of Haidwar is the gateway to Chardham Yatra in Uttarakhand. For most pilgrims, a necessary part of their journey is a visit to the three Shaktipeeths in Haridwar, either on their way to Chardham or after returning from the higher Himalayas. Haridwar is renowned for its Panch Tirth (five important pilgrimages) within the city, among which are the two Shaktipeeths – Bilwa Tirtha (Mansa Devi temple) and Neel Parvat (Chandi Devi temple). Maya Devi Shaktipeeth is in the heart of the city near Birla Ghat.
Maya Devi Shaktipeeth
Located within the Juna Akhada precincts, Maya Devi temple is a peaceful sanctuary that calls all seekers within its divine embrace. One can feel the beautiful, loving energy of the goddess as soon as one steps inside the temple. Among the 51 Shaktipeeths where different parts of Maa Sati’s body have fallen, this is where her heart is said to be enshrined. It is not surprising that those seekers who come here feel this all-encompassing love as soon as they connect with her energy. It is also said that along with her heart, Maa Sati’s navel also fell here.
Maya Devi is the presiding deity of Haridwar, as earlier the city was known as Mayapuri. This ancient Shaktipeeth dates back to the 11th century. Goddess Shakti in this temple has three aspects – Maa Maya in the centre, Maa Kali facing left, and Maa Kamakhya facing right.
Prominently displayed on the walls are photographs of the Das Mahavidyas – Kali, Tara, Tripura Sundari, Bhuvaneshvari, Bhairavi, Chhinnamasta, Dhumavati, Bagalamukhi, Matangi and Kamalatmika. The Bhairavs of the Mahavidyas are also worshipped along with them, so one can find many Shivlings within the temple. I could also see a board featuring the Kaal Bhairav Ashtkam.
This was my second visit to the Maya Devi temple after many years, but this time, being more aware of Maa Shakti’s various aspects, my experience was more profound and beautiful.
Mansa Devi Shaktipeeth
Located at the top of the Shivalik Hills is Bilwa Tirth, popularly known as the Mansa Devi temple in Haridwar. Thousands of people visit the Shaktipeeth every day. While many take the 3 km trek to the top of the mountain, others like me opt for the ropeway or Udan Khatola. It is advisable to buy a combined ropeway ticket for both Mansa Devi temple and Chandi Devi temple from the ticket counter here.
The ropeway ride and the view from the top of the mountain are absolutely stunning. The temple complex is huge, and it takes quite some time to navigate through the queues formed by the throng of devotees.
One of the most revered and powerful Shaktipeeths in this part of the country, Maa Sati’s forehead is believed to have fallen here. It is said that Mansa Devi emerged from Lord Shiva’s mind, and hence the name Mansa (originating from the word Manas, meaning mind, intellect). People come here to get their wishes fulfilled, and the goddess in her infinite kindness blesses them. There are many smaller shrines within, and when one finally reaches the silver gates of the sanctum sanctorum, having a glimpse of Maa Mansa’s beautiful murti is a sacred wish fulfilled for all the pilgrims.
After having darshan, while waiting for the cable car, the beautiful views further uplifted me spiritually and made me think how most of the Shaktipeeths are located in surroundings that make all pilgrims strengthen their connection with Mother Nature, who is none other than Shakti herself.
Chandi Devi Shaktipeeth
Chandi Devi Shaktipeeth is at the top of the Neel Parvat in the eastern Shivalik Hill range. The fierce form of Shakti, Maa Chandi, had slayed the demon kings Shumbha and Nishumbha. The place where she had rested after the ferocious battle is where the temple came up. Though the present temple was built here about a hundred years ago, the main murti of Maa Chandi is believed to have been installed here in the 8th century by Adi Shankaracharya.
Chandi Devi temple is also known as a Siddhapeeth, where pilgrims get their desires fulfilled. While I saw many people opting to trek to Mansa Devi temple, most pilgrims here had taken the cable car, probably as the climb was more difficult. The ropeway takes pilgrims to the top of the mountain, after which there are still some steps to reach the temple.
Like the Mansa Devi temple, there are multiple shrines here, and it is a big temple complex. Standing in queue with hundreds of other devotees, when I reached the door of the sanctum sanctorum, the benign vermillion covered face of the goddess seemed so simple and earthy. I was almost taken aback by the different kind of energy I felt here.
As the Chandi Devi temple is away from the chaotic lanes of Haridwar, one can spend some time here soaking in the beautiful surrounding views and connecting with sacred nature in a peaceful environment.
Important info:
How to reach: Haridwar is well connected by the Indian Railways. It does not have its own airport; the nearest is Dehradun’s Jolly Grant Airport, at a distance of about 35 km.
Accommodation: There are many stay options in Haridwar for various budget categories – from ashrams and homestays to boutique properties near the Ganga river.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories, ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)
Dhari Devi temple: Garhwal’s powerful Siddhapeeth & Shaktipeeth
The very first time I had heard of Dhari Devi (a form of Goddess Kali) was after the Kedarnath floods in 2013, when the story of the powerful goddess’s wrath became synonymous with the catastrophe. We are all aware that the day her idol was shifted for dam construction, the same day the floods played havoc. The guardian goddess of the Char Dhams (Kedarnath, Badrinath, Yamunotri and Gangotri) in Garhwal, Uttarakhand came back to her temple on the Alaknanda River near Srinagar, and since then, no further attempts have been made to remove her presence from there.
In 2019, during my Char Dham Yatra in Uttarakhand, we were shown her temple from the road above by our driver, but we never stopped to pay our respects. It was an incomplete Yatra in many ways, as even after waiting for almost 2 days at Guptakashi helipad (with my septuagenarian mother), we were unable to reach Kedarnath. This pain of an unfinished Yarta remained, and for six long years, I would often wonder why I couldn’t go to Kedarnath. In the intervening years, I was blessed to complete the darshan of 11 Jyotirlingas; only Kedarnath remained.
In October 2025, when I again tried to visit Kedarnath, I made a necessary inclusion in the itinerary – the Dhari Devi temple. I somehow felt that, without her blessings, my pilgrimage could not be complete. Following a nail-biting return journey from Kedarnath amidst a delayed helicopter ride due to rain and snowfall, I was finally at the gates of the Dhari Devi temple.
Both a Siddhapeeth and a Shaktipeeth (among the 108), this has always been considered a very mysterious temple. Her upper body is worshipped here as Dhari Devi, while the lower part is enshrined at Kalimath temple near Rudraprayag.
After a long walk down the pathway to reach the temple, even before entering the precincts, I was mesmerised by the serene surroundings in the midst of the mighty Alaknanda River. No wonder the goddess never wants to leave this beautiful abode she has chosen for herself.
The temple was most unusual and unlike any other I have been to. I was happy to see there wasn’t much of a crowd inside. Everything was so well organised, and there was a short queue of devotees giving their offerings peacefully to a priest.
Under a golden canopy, the astonishingly beautiful dark face of Dhari Devi was hypnotic. She was wearing a silver crown and a large gold nose ring. It is said that her face changes appearance at different times of the day (child, young woman, old woman). I stood mesmerised for quite some time, before becoming aware of the other deities surrounding her – Ganesha, Bhairav Nath, 64 Yoginis, Chetrapal Adi Gan. Also prominent was the stone mountain backdrop of the sanctum sanctorum.
My heart overflowed with gratitude as I thanked Dhari Devi for enabling my Char Dham Yatra on her land. It had been a long wait for me, but I knew that, as per divine will, this was the chosen, right time.
Soaking in the wonderful atmosphere of the temple, I wanted to keep gazing at the goddess for the longest possible time.
My heart was full as I stepped outside the temple, and I felt beautifully complete. I might not get an opportunity to visit the temple again, but I know the blessings will remain with me through this lifetime and beyond.
Important info:
How to reach: Jolly Grant Airport in Dehradun is located about 125 km from Dhari Devi temple. The nearest railhead in Rishikesh, which is 115 km away. Private taxis and buses are available from both locations.
Accommodation: There are many stay options in Haridwar, Rishikesh and Dehradun for various budget categories.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)
Barsana’s Radha Rani Temple, Kirti Mandir: A Pilgrimage of Love
From the main arterial road in Barsana to the temple, I could see huge crowds everywhere, though it was not an important festival day or weekend. It is said that though lakhs of people reach Vrindavan, only a small percentage of them are able to go to Barsana. These people are those whom Radha Rani really calls and considers her own. So, I was happy to see so many people being bestowed by her grace and drawn by her call.
From the terrace of the temple, one could see far into the horizon; however, the calling was closer home – in everyone’s heart. It seemed not to be an outward pilgrimage to the goddess of love and devotion, but a stepping into the heart to feel her essence.
Kirti Mandir, located on the main road of the temple town, is a beautiful modern structure named after Radha Rani’s mother. This beautiful temple, which, like Vrindavan’s Prem Mandir, was envisioned by Jagadguru Shri Kripalu Ji Maharaj. The construction of this unique temple, which took 12 years to complete, was inaugurated in 2019. And has since then been drawing pilgrims to pay their obeisance to the presiding deity, Radha Rani, as a child, sitting on her mother’s lap. It is the only temple in the world that depicts her in this form. The other highlights include beautifully presented scenarios from her life – from Raas Leela and her sakhis to warming herself by the fire to playing a flute with Shri Krishna, and many others.
How to reach: Barsana is about an hour’s drive from Vrindavan. The nearest airports are Kheria Airport, Agra (55 km), and Indira Gandhi International Airport, New Delhi (147 km).
Accommodation: While there are some accommodation options in Barsana, most people prefer staying in Vrindavan and do a half-day trip to Barsana.
Nidhivan: Vrindavan’s Mystical Grove
I had first heard of Nidhivan a few decades ago and have since then been fascinated by its many mystical stories – a protected grove where Radha and Krishna continue to visit every night for their rasleela (dance of divine love) … the tulsi trees that turn into maidens of Braj … the many visible signs of their presence found even today … a place forbidden for people after sunset, it is believed that even animals and birds leave the sacred forest.
After a long wait of many years, I felt fortunate to recently visit this divine playground of Radha and Krishna, in the heart of Vrindavan. Nidhivan is located amidst the narrow bylanes of the temple town. The grove is cordoned off from the surrounding area and has a walkway through it so that pilgrims can experience the place and visit its temples without disturbing the natural habitat.
There are five temples located within Nidhivan. The first being Banke Bihari Prakat Sthal, a little temple where Swami Haridas, through his deep devotion, found the buried idol, which was later shifted and installed at the magnificent Banke Bihari temple in 1864. The beautiful idol of child Krishna is unique as it is in the Tribhanga pose (bent at three places).
When Radha and Krishna get tired after their divine dance every night, they rest in Rang Mahal in Nidhivan. A beautiful glittering temple where the bed is prepared every day for the divine couple, betel leaves and sweets are kept for them. In the morning, mysteriously, the bed is found in disarray with rumpled sheets as if someone had slept on it, and some of the food is found eaten.
A highlight in Nidhivan is the Ras Mandal – depicting where the rasleela takes place. This is where one can find the statues of the asht-sakhis (the eight closest friends) of Radharani, those who are with the divine couple every night during their sacred play. Along with them, it is the ubiquitous, unusually shaped tulsi trees found throughout the grove that actually depict the Gopikas, who are believed to turn into their original forms as maidens of Braj during the night and revert back as trees once the dance is over.
Another temple is of Bansichor Radha Rani, where the divine consort of Krishna is holding his flute after stealing it. She was upset that he spent too much time with the flute without giving attention to her, so she took it away. This little temple is believed to be the only one in the world where Radha Rani is found holding a flute.
The Samadhi Sthal of Swami Haridas is also located within Nidhivan. The 15th- century mystic poet, musician, and saint, who is renowned for his devotional renditions of Sri Krishna, is the founder of the Haridas school of mysticism. There is also a belief that Swami Haridas was actually a reincarnation of one of the asht-sakhis, Lalita Sakhi. During his lifetime, the saint had spent most of his time in Nidhivan, immersing himself in the deep divine love of Radha-Krishna.
Even today, many pilgrims who visit the sacred forest of Nidhivan, come with the hope of being touched by this mystical play and experience in some way the all-encompassing love that can transform the inner core of their being, making them aware of their own divinity.
Important info:
How to reach: Vrindavan station is well connected by the Indian Railways. The nearest airports are Kheria Airport, Agra (55 km), and Indira Gandhi International Airport, New Delhi (147 km).
Accommodation: There are many ashrams, dharmashalas, and hotels of various budget categories in Vrindavan. I had a pleasant stay at Brij Eternity, Vrindavan by Leisure Hotels.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories, ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’, and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)
Katyayani Devi Shaktipeeth, Vrindavan: An Abode of Divine Grace
For every pilgrim, the temple town of Vrindavan is suffused with the devotional energy of Radha and Krishna. People come here to be swept away by this great spirit of love and feel a part of the divine play that this land has represented for thousands of years. However, not many people know that the place where Radha and Krishna’s divine play takes place is also an important abode of Shakti – one of the 51 important Shaktipeeths is located among the many bylanes of Vrindavan, attracting seekers from across the country.
Katyayani Devi Shaktipeeth, also known as Uma Devi Shaktipeeth, is the location where the hair of Goddess Sati is said to have fallen. The goddess here is specially worshipped by young girls who pray to her to bless them with a good groom. It is believed that the maidens of Braj who wanted Krishna as their husband sought the blessings of Katyayani Devi. The tradition of worship continues.
The temple here was built more than a century ago by Kesavanand Maharaj, an ardent devotee of the goddess, who was instructed by her in a dream to construct a temple in Vrindavan, at the site where her hair had fallen.
After a precarious auto ride through the bylanes of Vrindavan, we were dropped off at the entrance to the temple. Why precarious? We were warned by our guide that the many monkeys that abound in this temple town have a penchant for snatching spectacles, mobiles, and bags. So everywhere we had to keep the specs and mobile inside the purse and sling it across so that it could not be snatched easily. There were so many monkeys outside the temple that the auto driver kept guard, so that our footwear was not taken away.
On reaching here, I found that the Shaktipeeth was much less crowded than many other temples in Vrindavan that draw huge crowds every day. It was evening time and we had to wait a while for the main entrance to open. The timings are 7 am to 11 am (morning) and 5.30 pm to 8 pm (evening).
As soon as the big entrance door opened, we walked into the inner courtyard that opened to the beautiful marble temple of Katyayani Devi, and the Shiva temple. The serene environment filled me with peace. When I stepped inside the temple to have darshan of the goddess, I was stunned by the resplendent beauty of her form. I could feel that great beauty reflecting in my heart as my head bowed down in reverence.
After doing parikrama of Maa Katyayani’s idol, I went to the Bhairav temple, and though it was closed, I could have darshan of the Shivlinga from outside. Bhuteshwar Mahadev is the Bhairav of Katyayani Devi, and is known to protect the city from negative entities.
Outside, we found that our auto driver had successfully managed to protect our slippers from the band of monkeys. This was followed by another cautious auto ride, clutching our possessions, as we headed to the next temple.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)
Krishna: The Witness
They were walking along the shade of Ashoka and Pilu trees, near the banks of Yamuna river. The seven maidens of Braj were in a hurry. They were carrying water from the river for a sacred ceremony at the village headman’s house, where they were celebrating the birthday of his son. Following the ceremony, they would all head to the woods and dance through the night, as always.
Normally they avoided this stretch of the forest, as from sometime they had started believing that the area was haunted. It had happened a few times that while crossing the place they could feel a sudden swish of the wind, a rattle and an unusual vibration. Today they had no choice as it was the shortest way to the village. Wearing their best of clothes for the celebrations, with the pitchers of water precariously perched on their heads, they hurried along.
After a few steps and they could feel the rumble, the force of the wind seemed closer this time. Terrified, they closed their eyes and started praying to Krishna. Soon, it was over. Thanking the boy God for his protection, the women started walking faster.
At that very moment, from one of the last compartments of Jammu Tawi Express Train, four-year-old Alina peeped out from the window to see seven women standing by the tracks. Their colourful and beautiful clothes caught her eyes, she tugged at her mother’s arm and pointed out.
Prying her eyes away from her mobile, the mother looked out, but could only see a quietly flowing Yamuna and some sparse trees. If only she could have known that her little daughter had a peep through the folds of time to witness a scenario 5000 years ago.
As the women neared the headman’s house, they could see his son, the young Krishna, looking out from the window. They decided to recount their ordeal to him later. Forever the prankster, Krishna chuckled. He often enjoyed such confusions, but knew he would never be able to make them understand that the past, present and future were all woven together in parallel worlds. It was an endless play, and he was the only witness.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)
Kailash Manasarovar Yatra: A Sacred Dream Come True
For six long years, I had waited; it was almost an excruciating wait, marked by tears, prayers, and deep yearning, to someday stand on the shore of the sacred Manasarovar Lake, and look across with wonder and reverence at the sacred abode of Lord Shiva, Mt Kailash. It was a dream that had played countless times in my mind, I was never sure when it would come true … and the yearning, helplessness, and pain were so intense that finally I stopped thinking when or how it would ever materialise. I just surrendered, knowing that it is only Mahadev’s will and compassion that will make my Kailash Manasarovar Yatra come true.
On July 5th, 2025, when I had the first darshan of the distant white peaks of Mt Kailash, across the dark waters of Rakshas Tal, my eyes welled up with deep gratitude, for I knew that my being here was no less than a miracle, orchestrated by Mahadev himself. I am sure that my co-pilgrims and a few thousand other Indians who had got the blessed opportunity to go on Kailash Manasarovar Yatra in 2025, after five long years, would have also felt the same.
Our Kailash Manasarovar Yatra started from Lucknow on July 2nd, 2025, morning. By afternoon, we had crossed over to Nepalgunj via the Rupaidiha land port on the India-Nepal border. At Nepalgunj, our stay was at the Soaltee Westend Premier hotel, an upscale property located amidst serene green fields. That very evening, we received a detailed briefing about the Yatra, along with the precautions we needed to take, and the necessary dos and don’ts. We were also given a strip of Diamox tablets, which we had to take every day to lessen symptoms of altitude sickness.
The next day, early morning, we headed to Nepalgunj airport to catch our flight to Simikot, in the Humla district of Nepal. Located at a height of 9,246 ft above sea level, Simikot is a small village in the higher Himalayas that has been, since ancient times, a key gateway for Kailash Manasarovar Yatra. It is not uncommon for flight operations to be delayed or suspended here due to the fluctuating weather of the upper Himalayas. Our group of 40 also had to wait at Nepalgunj airport till early afternoon for the weather to clear at Simikot, before we could board our respective flights.
The small aircraft operated here by various airlines are generally 15-seaters. My Summit Air flight was comfortable, and the highlight of the 55-minute flight was, of course, the astounding views of the Himalayan ranges.
Our guest house, Humla Resort, was located next to the picturesque Simikot airport, and we stayed here for a night to get acclimatised to the higher altitude. The next morning, the chartered helicopter of Mountain Heli started transferring us in batches to Hilsa, from where we had to cross over the Karnali river bridge to reach Taklakot in Tibet. Two luxury buses awaited us here to transfer the group to the Chinese immigration centre. Contrary to many troubling stories that we had heard, it was a smooth immigration process for the whole group, and we were delighted to see that even the biometric system communicated in Hindi.
Taklakot, also known as Purang in Tibet Autonomous Region, is at a distance of just about 90 km from Manasarovar. Purang is at an altitude of approximately 12,795 feet, and we stayed here the night for further acclimatisation before our exciting journey ahead. Himalaya Purang Hotel is one of the best properties in this small town with nice rooms and picturesque views.
A few elderly ladies in our group had already started feeling the effects of high altitude, and each one of us was given a portable oxygen can, just in case we needed the same.
The next day was the most important for us as we were all looking forward to reaching Manasarovar Lake and having darshan of Mt Kailash. Interestingly, the first view of Kailash we saw was from across Rakshas Tal. Most people are well aware that there are two lakes here – a freshwater lake, Manasarovar, and a saltwater lake, Rakshas Tal. The latter is so saline that no fish, aquatic flora, or fauna can survive in its dark waters. It is believed that the demon king Ravana had done penance here to please Shiva, and it lies to the west of Manasarovar Lake.
As the bus stopped near Rakshas Tal, I stepped out with others, careful not to get too close to the still dark blue waters of the lake. My eyes had just one focal point, the not-so-distant white peaks of Kailash. As tears welled in my eyes, my heart felt full. There was nothing else for me to desire; the only thing that I had longed for was coming true.
From then onwards, Kailash was never away from our view as we headed towards Manasarovar for the approximately three hours of parikrama around the lake. My gaze would rarely leave the peak of Kailash, as I wanted to imprint these moments in my heart for as long as I lived.
Following the parikrama, we got off the bus. The waters of Manasarovar shimmered as if countless stars were dancing on the surface. It was a surreal experience, and I could tangibly feel the divinity of the environment.
Taking a bath is not allowed in Manasarovar, and our Tibetan guide also told us to avoid dipping our feet in the sacred lake. Sitting on the shore, cupping the sacred waters in my hand, I offered it to the deities, my lineage of Gurus, and my ancestors, before pouring it on my head. I knew very well that it was the infinite blessings of the divine, my Guru and my ancestors, who had brought me to Kailash Manasarovar and made me experience the inexplicable beauty and divinity of the place.
That night, we stayed in Manasarovar at the luxurious Hot Spring Hotel, which is mostly frequented by trekkers from China. We felt truly blessed that even the restaurant in this hotel faced Kailash, and while having our lunch, tea, and dinner, our eyes and our hearts were focused on Shiva’s sacred abode.
A puja was organised for us the next morning, following which we headed to Darchen. Located at 15,321 feet, this is the start and concluding point of the parikrama. Our stay here was at the Himalaya Kailash Hotel, which is the only premier accommodation available in this small village, and we came across many Indian groups here. There are a few good souvenir shops across from the hotel, where pilgrims can buy stuff for themselves and people back home. The best part of Darchen is that Mt Kailash towers over the village, and is visible from everywhere – whenever you are stepping outside the hotel, crossing the street, or shopping.
Our group here got split into two – those opting to stay in Darchen or those eager to go for Kailash Kora … either half-parikrama till Dirapuk or full-parikrama till Zuthulpuk. I was not confident I could do the arduous 52 km / three days trek, so I chose to be in Darchen, and focus on doing more nama japa and meditation here itself.
The next morning, our whole group went to Yam Dwar and the trek starting point, where ponies were sorted for those going for parikrama. Yam Dwar, also known as ‘Gateway of the God of Death’, is a small temple-like structure that one has to enter, leave a personal object/cloth there, and exit from the other side. This is a symbolic representation of leaving our worldly attachments and focusing on our spiritual life ahead. The South face of Mt Kailash can be seen closely from Yam Dwar.
Fifteen of us started our return journey to Lucknow the next day. We were planning to reach Nepalgunj on July 8th, but flight operations were suspended in Simikot due to bad weather, so we had to stay there an additional night. The minor challenges of our journey were, however nothing compared to that faced by many other groups whom we had met, some whose 9 days trip got extended to 16 days, either due to delay in visa processing, or lackadaisical services provided by their tour operators as a result of which they were unable to board their flights from Simikot. Some would go to the airport every day and got turned back, while other groups were prioritised.
The Yatra itself is a complex process, and the most important thing is to select a reliable tour operator who is a specialist and has excellent ground handlers in Nepal and Tibet. I am glad I went with Chennai-headquartered Praxis Holidays LLP, which ensured excellent care and priority services at all locations, at every stage. On July 9th evening, we were back in Lucknow.
An important learning for me is that Kailash Manasarovar Yatra is not an external pilgrimage, but the beginning of a deeper spiritual quest within. The Yatra made me realise that this inner journey will be extremely tough, but when we completely surrender, wiping out everything illusory from our lives, Shiva will bless us with his constant presence. We will experience our True Self, which is none other than Shiva himself. And that very day, our inner Kailash Yatra will be complete. Shivoham.
Important info:
How to reach: Drive from Lucknow to Nepalgunj (about 188 km); flight from Nepalgunj to Simikot followed by helicopter ride to Hilsa; walk across Karnali river bridge to Purang in Tibet; by road to Manasarovar and Darchen.
Accommodation: Soaltee Westend (Nepalgunj); Humla Resort (Simikot); Himalaya Purang Hotel; Hot Spring Hotel (Manasarovar); Kailash Himalaya Hotel (Darchen). Those going for parikrama stay at guest houses in Dirapuk and Zuthulpuk.
Tour operator: Praxis Holidays LLP is a specialist in organising Kailash Manasarovar Yatra. Contact details: 9566166444 (Mr Vanchi). Email: contact@praxisholidays.com
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’, and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)
Chausath Yogini Temple, Hirapur: 64 manifestations of the divine feminine
For many years I have wanted to visit one of the ancient Chausath (64) Yogini temples in India. My recent visit to Bhubaneswar fulfilled my yearning. I have always been fascinated by the Yoginis, but knew very little about them, except for the fact that they are powerful manifestations of the divine feminine. Each Yogini is an incarnation of Shakti (Goddess Durga), and the temple in Hirapur, Bhubaneswar has Mahamaya as the presiding deity.
The temple is a short drive away from Bhubaneswar city centre and is located in serene and picturesque environs. There is a pond, Mahamaya Pushkarini Kund, in the vicinity, and the temple is ensconced in a well-kept garden. Surrounded by such natural beauty, the temple itself seemed a part of nature. This shouldn’t be a surprise considering that the daily rituals include worshipping the five elements of nature, that is earth, water, fire, sky, and ether. The 9th-century temple has also a deep connection with tantric traditions. Yogini temples are open air as it is believed that the Yoginis fly.
As I entered the gates, I saw a small Shiva temple on the left. There was a Shivlinga inside, while a statue of Vishnu was outside. There was a tree, under which people had kept countless metallic snakes of various sizes, probably for getting their wishes fulfilled. It was a fascinating sight.
A little ahead, at first glance, I was a little surprised that the sandstone circular open-air temple was not too big, contrary to what the photographs that I had seen earlier made me believe. It has a circumference of 27.4 m and 2.4 m in height. However, despite the limited space that the temple occupies, the innumerable sculptures, the deep-rooted meanings, and symbolism, are truly mind-boggling.
The circular temple has statues of the Navadurgas outside. The entrance to the temple is through a narrow opening and is guarded by statues of gatekeepers. The priest informed that their names are Chanda and Munda.
The inside walls of the sanctum are lined with 64 niches occupied by black granite statues of the Yoginis. Each Yogini has her vahana (mount). Occupying centrestage is Mahamaya who is worshipped every day by a group of priests. One of them informed me that people come here, particularly on Tuesdays and Saturdays, to worship and seek the blessings of the Yoginis to eradicate their problems.
The names of some of the 64 Yoginis are: Mahamaya and Mahalakshmi (on a lotus); Tara and Chandrika (both Yoginis stand on a corpse to signify detachment); Kali (on Shiva); Ganga (on a crocodile); Yamuna (on a tortoise) and Narmada (on an elephant); boar-faced Varahi (on a buffalo); Padmavati (on a snake); Vaishnavi (on Garuda); Kalratri (on a boar); Chinnamastaka (on a severed human head); Jalakamini (on a frog); Vikarali (on a dog); Kaumari, the power of God Kartikeya (on a peacock); Matangi or Shitala (on a donkey); Vindhyavalini (on a rat); Maheshvari (on a bull); Ghatavari (on a lion); Aditi (on a parrot); Ajita (on a mouse deer); Dhumavati (on a goose), and others. Some of the Yoginis like Chinnamastaka and Dhumavati are among the 10 Mahavidyas.
The statues of Yoginis surround a pavilion-like structure that, according to the priest, represented a Shivlinga, from which water flowed out through the entrance. This is called the Chandi Mandap which has sculptures of four Yoginis with their respective Bhairavas. The priest informed me that there was a statue of Shiva earlier, within the mandap.
To me, it seemed that Hirapur’s Chausath Yogini Temple is a powerful expression of cosmic existence – Consciousness (Shiva), surrounded by the various manifestations of Shakti, symbolising everything the universe encompasses and beyond. The statues are not just crafted in stone but are living energies – the 64 aspects through which the Universal Mother wants us to understand how we are connected to her vast creation, and discover our true self.
Important info:
How to reach: Chausath Yogini Temple in Hirapur is a short drive from Bhubaneswar airport and city centre.
Accommodation: There are many accommodation options in Bhubaneswar for different budget categories.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’, and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)
Ugra Tara, Cuttack Chandi, Kalijai temples: 3 powerful abodes of Shakti in Odisha
Continuing with the series on Shakti temples across Odisha, in this article, I am writing about my visit to three powerful Shakti temples in the state – Ugra Tara temple in Mulajharigarh village, Cuttack Chandi temple, and Kalijai temple in Chilika Lake. To be honest, when I had started planning for the Odisha Shaktipeeth tour and visit to Jagannath Dham in Puri, I had never even heard of these three Shakti temples, however, they were included in the itinerary of the tour operator I selected (Swosti Travels in Bhubaneswar), and I consider it a wonderful blessing of the Great Mother that she brought me to her three abodes, to connect with her more deeply.
Maa Ugra Tara temple
About 65 km from Bhubaneswar, in Mulajharigarh village, Bhusandapur is the Ugra Tara temple. The temple is out of the way and it would be difficult to reach without one’s vehicle. There didn’t seem to be anything much around, apart from a few small shops selling puja items and snacks near the temple entrance.
Entering the gates, it became obvious that the complex occupied a large area. The outer walls of the main temple had colourful and fascinating sculptures – from Mahavishnu in his all-encompassing cosmic form, to Shiva, Rama with Sita and Hanuman, the many manifestations of the divine mother, and others among our vast pantheon of gods and goddesses.
Inside the sanctum sanctorum, the energy was more sedate and astonishingly powerful. Maa Ugra Tara is known to be a fierce deity in Tantric traditions, who is also called Neel Saraswati. She is the second among the Dasa Mahavidyas. Her idol here has three eyes and four hands carrying weapons.
Though she is feared because of her fierceness, she is loved by her devotees with great passion as they know she protects them and cuts out everything unwanted from their lives that impede their spiritual growth. She is the Great Mother whose love is as fierce as her protection for her children.
Maa Cuttack Chandi temple
Bhubaneswar to Cuttack is just about 45 minutes drive and it is advisable to leave early in the morning and not get caught in the traffic. Maa Chandi is the presiding deity of the city and her temple is located near Mahanadi river.
I felt fortunate to have reached there at the time of the morning aarti, which was being attended by a few local devotees. A curtain was drawn during the aarti, and as soon as it was opened I was astonished by the beautiful and resplendent idol of the goddess. As my eyes adored her beautiful form and I prayed for blessings for myself, my family, my country and the whole world … I could feel her presence drawing me within. Her glorious form made me feel so beautiful from the inside, and that was the deep divine connection that made me feel truly blessed.
Outside the temple, there is an area for ritualistic sacrifice (Bali). There is also a small Shiva temple in the vicinity.
There is a major renovation going on in the temple complex, which hopefully will be completed soon. One fascinating aspect for me was the entrance to the temple complex, which is grand with statues of various manifestations of Shakti.
Maa Kalijai temple
Located on an island in Chilika Lake is the famous Kalijai temple. Reaching this Kali temple is an experience in itself. The only approach is through boats, and we had a beautiful experience of 45 minutes (each way) reaching the island from Barkul.
The picturesque scenery of the lake, the cool breeze and the flock of migratory birds made the trip an unforgettable experience. The island itself has amazing views all around.
Nature is a manifestation of Maa Kali, and the astounding natural beauty of the trip and the surroundings seemed to be a blessing from her, even before we stepped inside the temple. The Kalijai temple was not crowded when we reached and the powerful serenity I felt truly made me feel uplifted.
There is a small Bhairav temple just opposite Maa Kali’s abode. Apart from the jetty and a few snack shops, there is nothing much around.
One can opt to hire a whole boat from one of the private operators or pay per head INR 200 (return trip) for Orissa Tourism Development Corporation (OTDC) operated boats. We took an OTDC boat with approx 12 more people. Life jackets were provided to each passenger, and we were given half an hour at the island by the boat operator. It was a truly memorable trip to seek the blessings of Goddess Kali, luxuriating in the beauty of nature along the way.
Important info
How to reach: All the above temples are easily approachable by road from Bhubaneswar. Kalijai Temple is nearer to Gopalpur, about 70 km away.
Accommodation: There are many accommodation options in Bhubaneswar and Gopalpur. Swosti Grand (Bhubaneswar) and Swosti Palm Resort (Gopalpur) are two recommended properties.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)
Varahi Temple, Chaurasi: Ancient abode of a Tantrik goddess near Puri
The state of Odisha is renowned worldwide for its ancient temples that attract both serious seekers and curious visitors. While many of these temples have become important pilgrim sites through the ages, there are a few that are lesser known and only attract those people who understand the significance and make a conscious effort to visit and seek out the deity’s blessings. Among the latter category is the 9th-century Varahi (Barahi) Devi temple in Chaurasi, about 27 km from Konark.
The temple is an Archaeological Survey of India-protected monument set in a landscaped garden that truly accentuates the astounding architectural beauty of the structure. The main temple itself is not so big, however, its fascinating sculptures, the serene environment and the powerful energy of the deity leave a deep impact.
For quite some time I had been feeling this strong pull to visit a Varahi Devi temple, however, I never got the opportunity as they are nonexistent in my city, and most of the places I have been travelling recently. So I was thrilled to get an opportunity to visit Varahi Devi temple in Chaurasi, during my Odisha Shakti temple tour.
A little bit of online research indicated that the temple is open for only a few hours in the morning, and later in the evening. I had left my Puri hotel early in the morning and reached there within 1.5 hours. As the temple is not visited by too many people, the driver had to ask for directions in nearby villages. Driving through narrow lanes when we reached the temple, its beautiful gardens were a truly welcoming sight.
There was no one around, except for a few boys who had probably skipped college and were chatting in the shade of the temple. I understood that not many people came here, when a local man who noticed us, asked us to wait a few minutes for the temple priest who was on his way. I am glad we waited as the young priest came shortly on his motorcycle and happily shared with us details about the deity and the temple.
Varahi Devi, a manifestation of Shakti, emerged from the Varaha Avatar of Vishnu when he saved the earth from the depths of the primordial ocean. One of the Sapta Matrikas (the group of seven Mother Goddesses), she is the divine mother who has the head of a sow. All the Matrikas have the form of the male deities from which they had emerged.
Varahi Devi has been worshipped down the ages as a powerful Tantrik goddess and is known to provide great strength and protection to her seekers. In this temple, she is known as Matsya Varahi. She holds a fish in her right hand and a kapala (human skull) in her left. Her vahana (vehicle) is a buffalo.
No artificial light is allowed inside the temple, which comprises a small hall and the sanctum sanctorum. In semi-darkness, I could perceive the idol of the deity. Though I was fascinated by her unusual form, I felt a deep sense of peace in her presence. Strangely this stillness throbbed with an energy that is difficult to explain.
The architecture outside is no less fascinating. Facing the entrance of the temple is a short stone pillar with a sculpture on top covered by cloth, which the priest explained is of Maa Tara, who is offered Bali (animal sacrifice) on Dusshera. Varahi Devi is however offered fish.
The entrance is flanked by the sculptures of Nagas (snakes) on either side. In fact, there are more Naga sculptures around the temple, entwined around pillars. Among the intricate carvings and other prominent sculptures, are that of the Sun God, Suryanarayana, and Ganesha.
It was wonderful to see that the astoundingly beautiful stone structure had survived the ravages of time well, and is excellently taken care of by the Archaeological Survey of India. Strangely, while thousands of people visit Konark every day, this nearby hidden gem is unknown to most.
This fascinating temple with its powerful presence of a Mother Goddess and astonishing architecture should be on the must-visit itinerary of those who come to Puri and Konark. But like they say … the deity has to call you to be in her presence. I feel extremely fortunate to have heard that call.
Important info:
How to reach: Varahi Devi Temple in Chaurasi is about 47 km from Puri. The nearest airport is Bhubaneswar. Puri is well connected by train services.
Accommodation: There are multiple accommodation options in Puri, for all budget categories. I was staying at Pride Ananya Resort.
(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)