Krishna: The Witness

They were walking along the shade of Ashoka and Pilu trees, near the banks of Yamuna river. The seven maidens of Braj were in a hurry. They were carrying water from the river for a sacred ceremony at the village headman’s house, where they were celebrating the birthday of his son. Following the ceremony, they would all head to the woods and dance through the night, as always.

Normally they avoided this stretch of the forest, as from sometime they had started believing that the area was haunted. It had happened a few times that while crossing the place they could feel a sudden swish of the wind, a rattle and an unusual vibration. Today they had no choice as it was the shortest way to the village. Wearing their best of clothes for the celebrations, with the pitchers of water precariously perched on their heads, they hurried along.

After a few steps and they could feel the rumble, the force of the wind seemed closer this time. Terrified, they closed their eyes and started praying to Krishna. Soon, it was over. Thanking the boy God for his protection, the women started walking faster.

At that very moment, from one of the last compartments of Jammu Tawi Express Train, four-year-old Alina peeped out from the window to see seven women standing by the tracks. Their colourful and beautiful clothes caught her eyes, she tugged at her mother’s arm and pointed out.

Prying her eyes away from her mobile, the mother looked out, but could only see a quietly flowing Yamuna and some sparse trees. If only she could have known that her little daughter had a peep through the folds of time to witness a scenario 5000 years ago.

As the women neared the headman’s house, they could see his son, the young Krishna, looking out from the window. They decided to recount their ordeal to him later. Forever the prankster, Krishna chuckled. He often enjoyed such confusions, but knew he would never be able to make them understand that the past, present and future were all woven together in parallel worlds. It was an endless play, and he was the only witness.

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)

 

 

 

Kailash Manasarovar Yatra: A Sacred Dream Come True

For six long years, I had waited; it was almost an excruciating wait, marked by tears, prayers, and deep yearning, to someday stand on the shore of the sacred Manasarovar Lake, and look across with wonder and reverence at the sacred abode of Lord Shiva, Mt Kailash. It was a dream that had played countless times in my mind, I was never sure when it would come true … and the yearning, helplessness, and pain were so intense that finally I stopped thinking when or how it would ever materialise. I just surrendered, knowing that it is only Mahadev’s will and compassion that will make my Kailash Manasarovar Yatra come true.

On July 5th, 2025, when I had the first darshan of the distant white peaks of Mt Kailash, across the dark waters of Rakshas Tal, my eyes welled up with deep gratitude, for I knew that my being here was no less than a miracle, orchestrated by Mahadev himself. I am sure that my co-pilgrims and a few thousand other Indians who had got the blessed opportunity to go on Kailash Manasarovar Yatra in 2025, after five long years, would have also felt the same.

Our Kailash Manasarovar Yatra started from Lucknow on July 2nd, 2025, morning. By afternoon, we had crossed over to Nepalgunj via the Rupaidiha land port on the India-Nepal border. At Nepalgunj, our stay was at the Soaltee Westend Premier hotel, an upscale property located amidst serene green fields. That very evening, we received a detailed briefing about the Yatra, along with the precautions we needed to take, and the necessary dos and don’ts. We were also given a strip of Diamox tablets, which we had to take every day to lessen symptoms of altitude sickness.

The next day, early morning, we headed to Nepalgunj airport to catch our flight to Simikot, in the Humla district of Nepal. Located at a height of 9,246 ft above sea level, Simikot is a small village in the higher Himalayas that has been, since ancient times, a key gateway for Kailash Manasarovar Yatra. It is not uncommon for flight operations to be delayed or suspended here due to the fluctuating weather of the upper Himalayas. Our group of 40 also had to wait at Nepalgunj airport till early afternoon for the weather to clear at Simikot, before we could board our respective flights.

The small aircraft operated here by various airlines are generally 15-seaters. My Summit Air flight was comfortable, and the highlight of the 55-minute flight was, of course, the astounding views of the Himalayan ranges.

Our guest house, Humla Resort, was located next to the picturesque Simikot airport, and we stayed here for a night to get acclimatised to the higher altitude. The next morning, the chartered helicopter of Mountain Heli started transferring us in batches to Hilsa, from where we had to cross over the Karnali river bridge to reach Taklakot in Tibet. Two luxury buses awaited us here to transfer the group to the Chinese immigration centre. Contrary to many troubling stories that we had heard, it was a smooth immigration process for the whole group, and we were delighted to see that even the biometric system communicated in Hindi.

Helicopter taking pilgrims from Simikot to Hilsa

Taklakot, also known as Purang in Tibet Autonomous Region, is at a distance of just about 90 km from Manasarovar. Purang is at an altitude of approximately 12,795 feet, and we stayed here the night for further acclimatisation before our exciting journey ahead. Himalaya Purang Hotel is one of the best properties in this small town with nice rooms and picturesque views.

A few elderly ladies in our group had already started feeling the effects of high altitude, and each one of us was given a portable oxygen can, just in case we needed the same.

The next day was the most important for us as we were all looking forward to reaching Manasarovar Lake and having darshan of Mt Kailash. Interestingly, the first view of Kailash we saw was from across Rakshas Tal. Most people are well aware that there are two lakes here – a freshwater lake, Manasarovar, and a saltwater lake, Rakshas Tal. The latter is so saline that no fish, aquatic flora, or fauna can survive in its dark waters. It is believed that the demon king Ravana had done penance here to please Shiva, and it lies to the west of Manasarovar Lake.

First view of Kailash from Rakshas Tal

As the bus stopped near Rakshas Tal, I stepped out with others, careful not to get too close to the still dark blue waters of the lake. My eyes had just one focal point, the not-so-distant white peaks of Kailash. As tears welled in my eyes, my heart felt full. There was nothing else for me to desire; the only thing that I had longed for was coming true.

From then onwards, Kailash was never away from our view as we headed towards Manasarovar for the approximately three hours of parikrama around the lake. My gaze would rarely leave the peak of Kailash, as I wanted to imprint these moments in my heart for as long as I lived.

Following the parikrama, we got off the bus. The waters of Manasarovar shimmered as if countless stars were dancing on the surface. It was a surreal experience, and I could tangibly feel the divinity of the environment.

Our group at Manasarovar Lake

Taking a bath is not allowed in Manasarovar, and our Tibetan guide also told us to avoid dipping our feet in the sacred lake. Sitting on the shore, cupping the sacred waters in my hand, I offered it to the deities, my lineage of Gurus, and my ancestors, before pouring it on my head. I knew very well that it was the infinite blessings of the divine, my Guru and my ancestors, who had brought me to Kailash Manasarovar and made me experience the inexplicable beauty and divinity of the place.

That night, we stayed in Manasarovar at the luxurious Hot Spring Hotel, which is mostly frequented by trekkers from China. We felt truly blessed that even the restaurant in this hotel faced Kailash, and while having our lunch, tea, and dinner, our eyes and our hearts were focused on Shiva’s sacred abode.

A puja was organised for us the next morning, following which we headed to Darchen. Located at 15,321 feet, this is the start and concluding point of the parikrama. Our stay here was at the Himalaya Kailash Hotel, which is the only premier accommodation available in this small village, and we came across many Indian groups here. There are a few good souvenir shops across from the hotel, where pilgrims can buy stuff for themselves and people back home. The best part of Darchen is that Mt Kailash towers over the village, and is visible from everywhere – whenever you are stepping outside the hotel, crossing the street, or shopping.

The quaint little village of Darchen

Our group here got split into two – those opting to stay in Darchen or those eager to go for Kailash Kora … either half-parikrama till Dirapuk or full-parikrama till Zuthulpuk. I was not confident I could do the arduous 52 km / three days trek, so I chose to be in Darchen, and focus on doing more nama japa and meditation here itself.

The next morning, our whole group went to Yam Dwar and the trek starting point, where ponies were sorted for those going for parikrama. Yam Dwar, also known as ‘Gateway of the God of Death’, is a small temple-like structure that one has to enter, leave a personal object/cloth there, and exit from the other side. This is a symbolic representation of leaving our worldly attachments and focusing on our spiritual life ahead. The South face of Mt Kailash can be seen closely from Yam Dwar.

Yam Dwar and the South face of Kailash

Fifteen of us started our return journey to Lucknow the next day. We were planning to reach Nepalgunj on July 8th, but flight operations were suspended in Simikot due to bad weather, so we had to stay there an additional night. The minor challenges of our journey were, however nothing compared to that faced by many other groups whom we had met, some whose 9 days trip got extended to 16 days, either due to delay in visa processing, or lackadaisical services provided by their tour operators as a result of which they were unable to board their flights from Simikot. Some would go to the airport every day and got turned back, while other groups were prioritised.

The Yatra itself is a complex process, and the most important thing is to select a reliable tour operator who is a specialist and has excellent ground handlers in Nepal and Tibet. I am glad I went with Chennai-headquartered Praxis Holidays LLP, which ensured excellent care and priority services at all locations, at every stage. On July 9th evening, we were back in Lucknow.

An important learning for me is that Kailash Manasarovar Yatra is not an external pilgrimage, but the beginning of a deeper spiritual quest within. The Yatra made me realise that this inner journey will be extremely tough, but when we completely surrender, wiping out everything illusory from our lives, Shiva will bless us with his constant presence. We will experience our True Self, which is none other than Shiva himself. And that very day, our inner Kailash Yatra will be complete. Shivoham.

Important info:

How to reach: Drive from Lucknow to Nepalgunj (about 188 km); flight from Nepalgunj to Simikot followed by helicopter ride to Hilsa; walk across Karnali river bridge to Purang in Tibet; by road to Manasarovar and Darchen.

Accommodation: Soaltee Westend (Nepalgunj); Humla Resort (Simikot); Himalaya Purang Hotel; Hot Spring Hotel (Manasarovar); Kailash Himalaya Hotel (Darchen). Those going for parikrama stay at guest houses in Dirapuk and Zuthulpuk.

Tour operator: Praxis Holidays LLP is a specialist in organising Kailash Manasarovar Yatra. Contact details: 9566166444 (Mr Vanchi). Email: contact@praxisholidays.com

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’, and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)

 

Chausath Yogini Temple, Hirapur: 64 manifestations of the divine feminine

For many years I have wanted to visit one of the ancient Chausath (64) Yogini temples in India. My recent visit to Bhubaneswar fulfilled my yearning. I have always been fascinated by the Yoginis, but knew very little about them, except for the fact that they are powerful manifestations of the divine feminine. Each Yogini is an incarnation of Shakti (Goddess Durga), and the temple in Hirapur, Bhubaneswar has Mahamaya as the presiding deity.

The temple is a short drive away from Bhubaneswar city centre and is located in serene and picturesque environs. There is a pond, Mahamaya Pushkarini Kund, in the vicinity, and the temple is ensconced in a well-kept garden. Surrounded by such natural beauty, the temple itself seemed a part of nature. This shouldn’t be a surprise considering that the daily rituals include worshipping the five elements of nature, that is earth, water, fire, sky, and ether. The 9th-century temple has also a deep connection with tantric traditions. Yogini temples are open air as it is believed that the Yoginis fly.

Mahamaya Pushkarini Kund and Shiva temple at the entrance

As I entered the gates, I saw a small Shiva temple on the left. There was a Shivlinga inside, while a statue of Vishnu was outside. There was a tree, under which people had kept countless metallic snakes of various sizes, probably for getting their wishes fulfilled. It was a fascinating sight.

A little ahead, at first glance, I was a little surprised that the sandstone circular open-air temple was not too big, contrary to what the photographs that I had seen earlier made me believe. It has a circumference of 27.4 m and 2.4 m in height. However, despite the limited space that the temple occupies, the innumerable sculptures, the deep-rooted meanings, and symbolism, are truly mind-boggling.

The circular temple has statues of the Navadurgas outside. The entrance to the temple is through a narrow opening and is guarded by statues of gatekeepers. The priest informed that their names are Chanda and Munda.

Mahamaya, the presiding deity

The inside walls of the sanctum are lined with 64 niches occupied by black granite statues of the Yoginis. Each Yogini has her vahana (mount). Occupying centrestage is Mahamaya who is worshipped every day by a group of priests. One of them informed me that people come here, particularly on Tuesdays and Saturdays, to worship and seek the blessings of the Yoginis to eradicate their problems.

The names of some of the 64 Yoginis are: Mahamaya and Mahalakshmi (on a lotus); Tara and Chandrika (both Yoginis stand on a corpse to signify detachment); Kali (on Shiva); Ganga (on a crocodile); Yamuna (on a tortoise) and Narmada (on an elephant); boar-faced Varahi (on a buffalo); Padmavati (on a snake); Vaishnavi (on Garuda); Kalratri (on a boar); Chinnamastaka (on a severed human head); Jalakamini (on a frog); Vikarali (on a dog); Kaumari, the power of God Kartikeya (on a peacock); Matangi or Shitala (on a donkey); Vindhyavalini (on a rat); Maheshvari (on a bull); Ghatavari (on a lion); Aditi (on a parrot); Ajita (on a mouse deer); Dhumavati (on a goose), and others. Some of the Yoginis like Chinnamastaka and Dhumavati are among the 10 Mahavidyas.

Chandi Mandap

The statues of Yoginis surround a pavilion-like structure that, according to the priest, represented a Shivlinga, from which water flowed out through the entrance. This is called the Chandi Mandap which has sculptures of four Yoginis with their respective Bhairavas. The priest informed me that there was a statue of Shiva earlier, within the mandap.

To me, it seemed that Hirapur’s Chausath Yogini Temple is a powerful expression of cosmic existence – Consciousness (Shiva), surrounded by the various manifestations of Shakti, symbolising everything the universe encompasses and beyond. The statues are not just crafted in stone but are living energies – the 64 aspects through which the Universal Mother wants us to understand how we are connected to her vast creation, and discover our true self.

Important info:

How to reach: Chausath Yogini Temple in Hirapur is a short drive from Bhubaneswar airport and city centre.
Accommodation: There are many accommodation options in Bhubaneswar for different budget categories.

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’, and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)

Ugra Tara, Cuttack Chandi, Kalijai temples: 3 powerful abodes of Shakti in Odisha

Continuing with the series on Shakti temples across Odisha, in this article, I am writing about my visit to three powerful Shakti temples in the state – Ugra Tara temple in Mulajharigarh village, Cuttack Chandi temple, and Kalijai temple in Chilika Lake. To be honest, when I had started planning for the Odisha Shaktipeeth tour and visit to Jagannath Dham in Puri, I had never even heard of these three Shakti temples, however, they were included in the itinerary of the tour operator I selected (Swosti Travels in Bhubaneswar), and I consider it a wonderful blessing of the Great Mother that she brought me to her three abodes, to connect with her more deeply.

Maa Ugra Tara temple

Maa Ugra Tara temple
About 65 km from Bhubaneswar, in Mulajharigarh village, Bhusandapur is the Ugra Tara temple. The temple is out of the way and it would be difficult to reach without one’s vehicle. There didn’t seem to be anything much around, apart from a few small shops selling puja items and snacks near the temple entrance.

Entering the gates, it became obvious that the complex occupied a large area. The outer walls of the main temple had colourful and fascinating sculptures – from Mahavishnu in his all-encompassing cosmic form, to Shiva, Rama with Sita and Hanuman, the many manifestations of the divine mother, and others among our vast pantheon of gods and goddesses.

Colourful sculptures of gods and goddesses

Inside the sanctum sanctorum, the energy was more sedate and astonishingly powerful. Maa Ugra Tara is known to be a fierce deity in Tantric traditions, who is also called Neel Saraswati. She is the second among the Dasa Mahavidyas. Her idol here has three eyes and four hands carrying weapons.

Though she is feared because of her fierceness, she is loved by her devotees with great passion as they know she protects them and cuts out everything unwanted from their lives that impede their spiritual growth. She is the Great Mother whose love is as fierce as her protection for her children.

Maa Cuttack Chandi temple
Bhubaneswar to Cuttack is just about 45 minutes drive and it is advisable to leave early in the morning and not get caught in the traffic. Maa Chandi is the presiding deity of the city and her temple is located near Mahanadi river.

Grand entrance to Maa Cuttack Chandi temple complex

I felt fortunate to have reached there at the time of the morning aarti, which was being attended by a few local devotees. A curtain was drawn during the aarti, and as soon as it was opened I was astonished by the beautiful and resplendent idol of the goddess. As my eyes adored her beautiful form and I prayed for blessings for myself, my family, my country and the whole world … I could feel her presence drawing me within. Her glorious form made me feel so beautiful from the inside, and that was the deep divine connection that made me feel truly blessed.

Cuttack Chandi temple and the enclosure outside for Bali

Outside the temple, there is an area for ritualistic sacrifice (Bali). There is also a small Shiva temple in the vicinity.

There is a major renovation going on in the temple complex, which hopefully will be completed soon. One fascinating aspect for me was the entrance to the temple complex, which is grand with statues of various manifestations of Shakti.

Maa Kalijai temple
Located on an island in Chilika Lake is the famous Kalijai temple. Reaching this Kali temple is an experience in itself. The only approach is through boats, and we had a beautiful experience of 45 minutes (each way) reaching the island from Barkul.

Maa Kalijai temple

The picturesque scenery of the lake, the cool breeze and the flock of migratory birds made the trip an unforgettable experience. The island itself has amazing views all around.

Nature is a manifestation of Maa Kali, and the astounding natural beauty of the trip and the surroundings seemed to be a blessing from her, even before we stepped inside the temple. The Kalijai temple was not crowded when we reached and the powerful serenity I felt truly made me feel uplifted.

Picturesque views around the island

There is a small Bhairav temple just opposite Maa Kali’s abode. Apart from the jetty and a few snack shops, there is nothing much around.

One can opt to hire a whole boat from one of the private operators or pay per head INR 200 (return trip) for Orissa Tourism Development Corporation (OTDC) operated boats. We took an OTDC boat with approx 12 more people. Life jackets were provided to each passenger, and we were given half an hour at the island by the boat operator. It was a truly memorable trip to seek the blessings of Goddess Kali, luxuriating in the beauty of nature along the way.

Important info
How to reach: All the above temples are easily approachable by road from Bhubaneswar. Kalijai Temple is nearer to Gopalpur, about 70 km away.

Accommodation: There are many accommodation options in Bhubaneswar and Gopalpur. Swosti Grand (Bhubaneswar) and Swosti Palm Resort (Gopalpur) are two recommended properties.

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)

Varahi Temple, Chaurasi: Ancient abode of a Tantrik goddess near Puri

The state of Odisha is renowned worldwide for its ancient temples that attract both serious seekers and curious visitors. While many of these temples have become important pilgrim sites through the ages, there are a few that are lesser known and only attract those people who understand the significance and make a conscious effort to visit and seek out the deity’s blessings. Among the latter category is the 9th-century Varahi (Barahi) Devi temple in Chaurasi, about 27 km from Konark.

The temple is an Archaeological Survey of India-protected monument set in a landscaped garden that truly accentuates the astounding architectural beauty of the structure. The main temple itself is not so big, however, its fascinating sculptures, the serene environment and the powerful energy of the deity leave a deep impact.

For quite some time I had been feeling this strong pull to visit a Varahi Devi temple, however, I never got the opportunity as they are nonexistent in my city, and most of the places I have been travelling recently. So I was thrilled to get an opportunity to visit Varahi Devi temple in Chaurasi, during my Odisha Shakti temple tour.

A little bit of online research indicated that the temple is open for only a few hours in the morning, and later in the evening. I had left my Puri hotel early in the morning and reached there within 1.5 hours. As the temple is not visited by too many people, the driver had to ask for directions in nearby villages. Driving through narrow lanes when we reached the temple, its beautiful gardens were a truly welcoming sight.

Entrance to the temple with Nagas sculpted on pillars

There was no one around, except for a few boys who had probably skipped college and were chatting in the shade of the temple. I understood that not many people came here, when a local man who noticed us, asked us to wait a few minutes for the temple priest who was on his way. I am glad we waited as the young priest came shortly on his motorcycle and happily shared with us details about the deity and the temple.

Varahi Devi, a manifestation of Shakti, emerged from the Varaha Avatar of Vishnu when he saved the earth from the depths of the primordial ocean. One of the Sapta Matrikas (the group of seven Mother Goddesses), she is the divine mother who has the head of a sow. All the Matrikas have the form of the male deities from which they had emerged.

Varahi Devi has been worshipped down the ages as a powerful Tantrik goddess and is known to provide great strength and protection to her seekers. In this temple, she is known as Matsya Varahi. She holds a fish in her right hand and a kapala (human skull) in her left. Her vahana (vehicle) is a buffalo.

Matsya Varahi

No artificial light is allowed inside the temple, which comprises a small hall and the sanctum sanctorum. In semi-darkness, I could perceive the idol of the deity. Though I was fascinated by her unusual form, I felt a deep sense of peace in her presence. Strangely this stillness throbbed with an energy that is difficult to explain.

The architecture outside is no less fascinating. Facing the entrance of the temple is a short stone pillar with a sculpture on top covered by cloth, which the priest explained is of Maa Tara, who is offered Bali (animal sacrifice) on Dusshera. Varahi Devi is however offered fish.

Intricate carvings on temple walls

The entrance is flanked by the sculptures of Nagas (snakes) on either side. In fact, there are more Naga sculptures around the temple, entwined around pillars. Among the intricate carvings and other prominent sculptures, are that of the Sun God, Suryanarayana, and Ganesha.

The Sun God, Surya Narayana

It was wonderful to see that the astoundingly beautiful stone structure had survived the ravages of time well, and is excellently taken care of by the Archaeological Survey of India. Strangely, while thousands of people visit Konark every day, this nearby hidden gem is unknown to most.

This fascinating temple with its powerful presence of a Mother Goddess and astonishing architecture should be on the must-visit itinerary of those who come to Puri and Konark. But like they say … the deity has to call you to be in her presence. I feel extremely fortunate to have heard that call.

Important info:

How to reach: Varahi Devi Temple in Chaurasi is about 47 km from Puri. The nearest airport is Bhubaneswar. Puri is well connected by train services.

Accommodation: There are multiple accommodation options in Puri, for all budget categories. I was staying at Pride Ananya Resort.

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)

Tara Tarini, Bimala, Biraja Shaktipeeths: A blessed journey across Odisha

When the Universal Mother, in her infinite compassion, wants us to reconnect with her energy, we start yearning to visit one of her great temples. All plans fall in place … and finally, when we reach there, the love that we feel in our hearts merges with her universal heart, and at that moment we are one with her. So whenever we visit a Shaktipeeth, we must understand that the call is her command, and our yearning is her great love.

Our ancient texts mention 4 Adi Shaktipeeths as Tara Tarini (Stana Khanda), in the Ganjam district of Odisha; Bimala (Pada Khanda) inside the Shree Jagannath Temple in Puri; Kamakhya (Yoni Khanda) in Guwahati; and Dakshina Kalika (Mukha Khanda) in Kolkata. These 4 Adi Shaktipeeths are the most powerful temples (among the 51) where different parts of Maa Sati’s body are enshrined. Ever since I visited Maa Kamakhya Temple and Kalighat about a year ago, I have been yearning to visit Tara Tarini and Maa Bimala Shaktipeeth in Odisha and complete the 4 Adi Shaktipeeth Yatra, which, with Maa’s blessings, I was finally able to do in this month.

Tara Tarini Shaktipeeth

Tara Tarini Shaktipeeth is about 153 km from Bhubaneswar, and from Gopalpur it is less than an hour’s drive away. Located in Ganjam district, the nearest railhead is Brahmapur. This is the place where the breasts of Maa Sati fell and there are two stones representing the twin goddesses – Tara and Tarini. Since time immemorial, the temple has been renowned as an extremely powerful shaktipeeth where the Universal Mother is “attentive” to the prayers of her seekers.

In the days of yore, the temple was held in great reverence by seafarers from the eastern coast and beyond, who believed that the goddess gave them protection in their journeys. The shrine was also associated with the Vajrayana sect of Tantrik Buddhism.

Maa Tara Tarini Temple
Sacred tree in temple complex

Today, being one of the Adi Shaktipeeths, thousands of pilgrims throng here every day. The temple is situated on Kumari Hills and the best option to reach is the cable car, aptly named Maa Tara Tarini Udan Khatola. Devotees can also trek to the top of the hill climbing about a thousand steps or park their vehicles and board the special buses provided by the government to take them to the temple. I took the cable car and for a minimal fare reached the hill-top. The view around was picturesque with the river, Rushikulya, flowing nearby.

A large tree dominated the expansive courtyard, just outside the main temple structure, which is a truly beautiful sight with its intricate carvings and sculptures. In fact, the whole hill-top complex has been restored taking into consideration the convenience of the pilgrims.

Maa Tara Tarini Udan Khatola – the cable car to reach the temple

I was happy to see that there were many more people outside the temple than inside, so there was less crowd to counter. The priests were kind enough to let us enter the sanctum sanctorum. Near the feet of the beautiful main idol are the two sacred stones representing the goddesses Tara and Tarini, and their masks. The divinity of the moment made me feel truly grateful and blessed.

The Tuesdays in the Hindu month of Chaitra (March-April) are considered especially auspicious, and the Chaitra Mela (Tara Tarini Jatra) is held here attracting huge crowds.

I was told by our driver, Ashok, that the forest and hills around were popular among village folks who come here in large groups on special occasions to celebrate, and while on our way out from the parking spot, we did see them cooking their feast in large cauldrons.

Bimala Shaktipeeth

Located within the Jagannath Temple complex is one of the foremost temples of Adi Shakti – Bimala Shaktipeeth. Though it is one of the smaller shrines within the complex, its significance is pre-eminent as an Adi Shaktipeeth, where the feet (pada) of Maa Sati are believed to have fallen.

It is essential to visit Bimala Shaktipeeth along with the Lakshmi temple in the Jagannath Temple complex. Totally in contrast to the jostling crowds eager to have a view of Shree Jagannath, there was hardly any crowd at Bimala Shaktipeeth when we visited. I felt at peace when I had her darshan, and my heart overflowed with gratitude that she had brought me to all her Adi Shaktipeeths within a span of 12 months.

There was no prayer on my lips, no thoughts in my mind, just a heart suffused with great love and gratitude. And, this I believe has been her greatest blessing.

Biraja Shaktipeeth

Located in Jajpur, a distance of less than 125 km from Bhubaneswar, Biraja Shaktipeeth can be a day trip from Odisha’s capital city. It is an important pilgrimage site that dates back to the 5th century. This is where the navel of Maa Sati fell, and she is worshipped here as goddess Biraja / Durga. It is a large temple complex with many shrines and is situated near the Vaitarini river.

Maa Biraja Temple

Having been warned about not engaging any pandas in the temple, we went straight ahead inside. The approach to the sanctum sanctorum was dark, but there was minimal crowd. The beautiful dark face of the goddess with a glittering forehead was mesmerizing. I wanted to stay in her magnetic presence for a longer time but had to leave as more people started coming in.

Bagalamukhi Devi Temple

The temple complex has many ancient shrines, like the Bagalamukhi Devi temple as a Dasamahavidya (the 10 tantrik forms of Shakti), Bhairava and Kali Temple, and 108 Shiva lingas in 2 small halls. The Shiva lingas were of varied shapes and sizes and made for a fascinating sight. It is in fact believed that the whole area of Jajpur has more than one crore Shiv lingas. Those interested in exploring the area must visit Trilochaneshwar Temple, Jagannath Temple, Siddheshwar Temple, among others.

Important info:

How to reach: All the above Shaktipeeths are well connected by road and train services.
Accommodation: There are varied accommodation choices in Bhubaneswar, Puri and Gopalpur. I was staying at Swosti Grand (Bhubaneswar), Pride Ananya Resort (Puri) and Swosti Palm Resort (Gopalpur).

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)

Ateshgah: Baku Fire Temple, along the ancient Silk Route

“Om Agnimīḷe purohitam yajṇ̃asya devamṛtvijam, hotāram ratnadhātamam”

The very first mantra in Rig Veda is an invocation to Agni, the God of fire. Regarded as the universal living intelligence, Agni is called upon by the seekers to imbibe within themselves the essence of the deity and grow upwards like the flame, in search of the ultimate Truth.

Fire is symbolic of spiritual transformation. And, my visit to Ateshgah, the Fire Temple in Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, reaffirmed for me how the essence of this sacred fire is ever burning within each one of us, from the very first moment we take our breath in this world.

Inscriptions in Sanskrit at the entrance

One of the key tourist attractions in Baku today, the Ateshgah was built by Hindus and Zoroastrian travellers along the ancient Silk Route. The temple is located in the Surakhany area of Baku. Surakhany means “holes with burning fountains”, on account of the natural gas found in the area.

The eternal fire that used to burn naturally in the main temple In the 17th and 18th centuries, has long been replaced by a gas pipeline. Along with this, the vast temple complex has been meticulously restored as a museum.

Ganesha was one of the main deities worshipped at the Fire Temple

On a cold December morning, when I stood inside the main temple, next to the flames that were burning bright and swaying in the wind, I felt I was in a sacred space. Enclosed within high walls, the main temple takes center stage in the vast courtyard. This central altar was in a cell earlier but was moved to the courtyard later.

The statue of Nataraja preserved in the museum

The central courtyard is surrounded by many cells that used to be occupied by ascetics and monks in ancient times but are now a museum, showcasing the history and significance of the Fire Temple down the ages.

Our tour guide, Vusal, who was exceptionally knowledgeable about local history, informed us that most of the cells had been restored by the Hindus and a few by the Zoroastrians.

I noticed that many of the inscriptions, from the main gate to those exhibited along with important artifacts, were in Sanskrit. A little research indicated that Ganesha and Shiva were the main deities mentioned in the inscriptions.

Cells around the central courtyard

The statues of Shiva as Nataraja and Ganesha occupying prominent places among the exhibits, further indicated that they were the main deities worshipped in the fire temple.

Model of the main Fire Temple displayed in the museum

As per information available in the museum, many of the Hindu ascetics who lived in Ateshgah would practice extremely stringent forms of devotion and self-denial. Travellers in those times wrote many interesting accounts about what they saw and experienced there. The temple was probably sustained by the merchants who halted at this place on their journeys along the old Silk Route.

Interestingly, though Ateshgah is no longer considered a “living temple” as the rituals of worship have long been stopped, the deity, Agni, continues to be alive in his sanctum sanctorum. With a living deity, for me, the temple was as sacrosanct as it would have been for the people who came here a few hundred years ago.

Important info:
How to reach: Ateshgah is a short 30-minute drive from the main city center in Baku. For reaching Baku, Indigo has direct flights from New Delhi.

Accommodation: My recommendation is the Badamdar Hotel & Residences in Baku.

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’, and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)

Mahishmardini, Kankalitala, Fullara Devi, Nandikeshwari, Nalateshwari: Shaktipeeths in Birbhum, West Bengal

Most people know of Birbhum district in West Bengal due to the presence of Rabindranath Tagore’s Shantiniketan in the area, however, there is much more to “the land of red soil” that people outside Bengal are not commonly aware of. The place takes great pride in its history which goes back many millennia, to pre-historic times. Significantly, it is home to one Siddhapeeth, Tarapith, and five important shaktipeeths that have been drawing pilgrims down the ages. The five Shaktipeeths are – Mahishmardini, Kankalitala, Fullara Devi, Nalateshwari, and Nandikeshwari. All these temples are not too far from each other, but one would still need at least two days to cover all the places.

Mahishmardini Shaktipeeth

Mahishmardini Shaktipeeth
Located just about 7 km from the district headquarters, Suri, in Birbhum district, Bakreshwar is a spiritual centre attracting pilgrims from across the state. The expansive temple complex is renowned for being a shaktipeeth (where Devi’s space between the eyebrows fell), the Bakranath Bahirav temple, the legend of sage Ashtavakra, and its famous hot springs. This place is also known as Bakreswari Shaktipeeth.

Hot springs

After entering the vast gates, to go towards the temples, we crossed the hot springs (kunds) where many people were taking baths. On the opposite side of the hot springs are the walls with sculpted murals of hand mudras.

The waters are believed to have medicinal properties and there are separate bathing areas for men and women. There are numerous hot springs here with different temperatures (and names), the hottest being the waters of Agni Kund at 93.33 degrees Celsius.

Ashtavakra Shivlinga

The first temple we visited was an ancient Shiva temple dedicated to his much-loved devotee Sage Ashtavakra, who has been much revered for his great wisdom down the ages.

The story of the challenges and ridicule he faced because of his deformed body (the word Ashtavakra means eight deformities), and how through the power of his devotion and great wisdom, he became such a celebrated sage, is truly inspirational. In this temple the original Shivlinga is covered by a gold casing representing the sage, as per lore, Shiva wants pilgrims to worship his great devotee Ashtavakra first, before himself.

Mudra murals

In the temple of the goddess, I was mesmerized by the beautiful idol of Mahishmardini.

Like me, I am sure the strength, power, and beauty it exuded, left no pilgrims untouched. The priests informed that the glabella (space between the eyebrows) has been kept preserved just below idol.

Adjacent to the main temple of the shaktipeeth, is the Bakranath Bahirav temple. Here too the Shivalinga in all its simplicity, emanated such a powerful energy that one could feel it tangibly.

Kankalitala Shaktipeeth
About 9 km from Bolpur where Viswa Bharati University is located, is Kankalitala Shaktipeeth.

The sacred pond at Kankalitala

The term Kankalitala is derived from the word ‘Kankal’, meaning skeleton. This is the place where the pelvis of Maa Sati is located, within a pond, in a clearly demarcated area.

This sacred pond is in fact the key focus for all the pilgrims, the sanctum sanctorum in the main temple does not have an idol, but yes, there is a painting of Goddess Kali.

Maa Kali’s painting in the temple

The powerful energy of Kankalitala has drawn many spiritual masters and tantriks through the centuries, to come here and perform their practices. From the temple, when we walked towards Kopai river, we could see many samadhis of such spiritual masters and aspirants.

Efforts have been made to beautify the area and make it more convenient and attractive for visitors. Aarati is performed by the river in the evenings and should not be missed.

The main temple

The temple complex is large and walking around one can almost physically feel the powerful energy of the place.

The small Bhairav temple is located in the vicinity, and he is known as Ruru Bhairav. When we reached the Bhairav temple, the priest was keen that he should be clicked also and posed excitedly with the Shivalinga. I obliged, for I truly believe that the ‘devta’ and his devotee are inseparable, so why not capture them in the same frame?

As the evening drew to a close and we headed towards Bolpur, I continued to feel the mystical throbbing of the powerful energy at Kankalitala. Every time, I recollect that evening, I feel engulfed by the same energy again.

Fullara Devi
Fullara Devi Shaktipeeth in Labpur is also known as Attahas Shaktipeeth, and this is the place where the divine mother’s lower lip is found.

Fullara Devi Shaktipeeth

There is no idol here, but a stone worshipped as her lower lip. Coloured in red, the eyes on it are mesmerizing, and make one catch a breath.

The powerful energy of Attahas Shaktipeeth made me feel almost numb, mentally and physically. The only thing I could do was surrender and be washed by this energy.

The sanctum sanctorum is in a large room with a silver canopy dangling above Maa Fullara. There is a small Bhairav temple in the vicinity, and he is known as Vishvesh Bhairav here.

The complex itself is quite vast and peaceful with a beautiful pond, called Rishikesh Ghat. As per local lore, when Shri Ram was looking for 108 blue lotuses to worship Maa Durga, this is the pond where the lotuses were found. Devotees can in fact spend a few peaceful hours soaking in the natural beauty of the temple complex.

Nandikeshwari Shaktipeeth
Nandikeshwari Shaktipeeth in Sainthia is where the collarbone of the divine mother is located. Here too, there is no idol, but a stone shaped exactly like a collarbone.

The collarbone of the goddess

There are many small temples around the main one, and Bhairav here is known as Nandikeshwar.

When I visited this Shaktipeeth, there was a major renovation going on within the complex, and I felt fortunate and blessed to have a peaceful darshan of Maa Nandikeshwari and the astonishing stone worshipped as her collarbone. The sanctum sanctorum was small, and the priests kindly allowed me to take a photograph.

Nalateshwari Shaktipeeth
A drive of one and a half hours away from Nandikeshwari Shaktipeeth, is the Nalateshwari Shaktipeeth.

Nalateshwari Shaktipeeth temple

This shaktipeeth in Nalhati is also just about an hour’s drive away from the famous Tarapith Siddhapeeth in Birbhum, which draws millions of devotees every year. In contrast, after traversing a maze of labyrinthine lanes when one reaches Nalateshwari Shaktipeeth, one is greeted by a peaceful environment with hardly any crowd. I was informed that during festivities like Durga Puja, Kali Puja, and other important occasions, the scene is different with a huge upsurge of pilgrims gathering here.

Maa Nalateshwari

The first thing that struck me was the beautiful facade of the temple, lit up in soft evening lights. Built in the typical temple architectural style of Bengal, it is a sight to behold. Taking a flight of steps when I reached the main temple and the sanctum sanctorum, I was struck by the resplendent idol of the goddess with her three golden eyes, golden tongue, and silver crown. The priest informed me the throat (windpipe) of Goddess Sati is preserved here, just below the idol.

The adjacent temples have idols of Ganesha and Hanuman, while the Bhairav temple, known as Yogesh Bhairav here is located nearby, within the complex.

At every shaktipeeth, I was fascinated by the fact that the Bhairav temples were such simple structures but had such powerful energy. It is believed that Bhairav guards the shaktipeeths and also balances the immense power of Shakti for the pilgrims who visit them. Shiva and Shakti are always together … while it is beyond the realm of our thoughts to understand their divine essence completely, by visiting the shaktipeeths we are able to connect with them together and take one small step ahead, in our efforts towards our spiritual evolution.

Important info:
How to reach: The above Shaktipeeths are a short drive from Bolpur/ Shantiniketan.
Accommodation: Bolpur offers varied accommodation choices, from hotels to homestays. I stayed at the centrally-located Club Central Hotel.

Shaktipeeth guided tours are organised across West Bengal by India Beacons Sojourn. WhatsApp contact: Anubha (8585007393) / Sandeep (9903295920).

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’,’ Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’, and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)

Mangal Chandi, Jogadya, Bahula: West Bengal Shaktipeeths near Burdwan

Less than a 100 kms from Kolkata is the city of Burdwan, which is not only famous for its rich multi-cultural heritage but also the striking Bengali architectural legacy. This quintessential architectural heritage is visible in the temples. One of the sacred landmarks in the city is the 108 Shiva Mandir built in the year 1809 by Maharaja Tej Chandra Bahadur. The complex of 108 Shiva temples is frequented by both locals and tourists. I felt blessed and fortunate to walk around all the 108 temples, reciting Óm Namah Shivaya. The mantra seemed to resonate in the peaceful environs of the temple complex, the beautiful lake, and the surrounding trees and plants.

108 temples of Shiva

While this temple complex is near the city, the Shaktipeeths are a distant away in remote villages in Burdwan district. So Shaktipeeth darshan across West Bengal is not only a pilgrimage to reconnect with our essence of the divine feminine, but also soak in the natural beauty of rural Bengal. As nature is a manifestation of the Goddess herself, it is not surprising that most of the shrines dedicated to her are located near water bodies and green spaces.

Shri Mangal Chandi Shaktipeeth

Idol of Shri Mangal Chandi
River Ajay flowing behind Shri Mangal Chandi Shaktipeeth

Located in a sleepy little village of Kogram is the Shri Mangal Chandi temple (Ujaani Shaktipeeth), where the left elbow of the Goddess is found. Here she is worshipped as Mahishasur Mardini (Goddess Durga). This is a small temple, managed privately by the Roy family for many generations. With the 22nd generation taking care of the temple now. Interestingly, her Bhairav called Kapilambar is in the same sanctum sanctorum.

When we reached there, we were the only devotees, and I realised that not too many people would be frequenting on regular days. I was however informed that in times of festivities, huge crowds gather here to sleek the blessings of the Goddess. As with all other Shaktipeeths, here too was a prominent water body, the river Ajay, flowing right behind the temple.

 

Shri Jogadya Shaktipeeth

The main gate of Maa-er Baari (the Mother’s House)

About 45 minutes drive away is the Jogdaya Shaktipeeth in Kshirgram, location of the Goddess’ right toe. Before visiting the temple we went to pay our respects at Maa-er Baari (the Mother’s House). Here there was no statue of the Goddess, but a blocked tunnel, from where it is believed she had emerged. The story goes that Hanuman had gone to Pataal Lok (realm located under the earth) to rescue Shri Ram and Lakshman from the demon king Mahiravan, who ruled the nether world. Mahiravan had mastered occult arts and was a great devotee of Goddess Kali. After defeating him, when Hanuman emerged from this tunnel, he brought the idol of the Goddess and she followed him from Pataal Lok. Later she was named as Jogadya and has been worshipped here since ages.

Entrance to the sacred tunnel

A local lady informed us that there are snakes guarding the tunnel’s entrance and as it is a sacred portal from which the Goddess came, the space is revered. As there is no idol, I tried to take a pic of the Goddess’s photograph in the adjoining room, but I was immediately warned not to do so. The locals said that the photograph is so powerful that we cannot keep it with us at home. But yes, they did allow me to take a pic of the room with the bed where they say the Goddess came and slept every night (for every morning they continue to find a crumpled sheet).

A short distance away is a white marble temple, where the original idol of the Goddess is under water. As this idol was found in the pond, it is believed that this is where she wants to be, so once a year (for 24 hours) in the month of May, the idol is taken out, worshipped with all rituals and again submerged. As the temple is partially under water, nobody is able to access it. However, next to the original shrine, is a new structure, which houses another beautiful statue of the Goddess as Mahishasur Mardini (slayer of the demon Mahishasur) and worshipped by throngs of devotees who come here every day.

Temple of Shri Jogadya Shaktipeeth, where the idol of the Goddess is underwater

Like all other Shaktipeeths, there is a cremation ground nearby, and the Bhairav temple is a short walk away through narrow bylanes. Her Bhairav is named as Khireswar and his temple is at an elevation. One has to take a short flight of steps to reach the sanctum sanctorum, but it is worth the effort as along with seeking blessings in the ancient temple, one can soak in the peaceful environs and enjoy the surrounding village view from the location.

Bahula Shaktipeeth
From Kshirgram, it took us about an hour to reach Bahula Shaktipeeth in Ketugram, which is approximately 32 kms away. The left arm of Maa Sati is enshrined in this shaktipeeth, and the Goddess here is known to fulfil the wishes of all those who come seeking blessings. In the sanctum sanctorum, the beautifully decked idol of the Goddess is flanked by her sons Ganesh and Kartikeya, and Bhairav, her divine consort, is known as Bhiruk.

Bahula Shaktipeeth

Though the entrance is through a narrow lane, the temple complex is very peaceful. I didn’t stay here for long, but the deep sense of peace and groundedness I felt here has stayed with me for a long time. And every time I think of Bahula Shaktipeeth, I relive those moments again.

Kiriteswari Shaktipeeth

Sanctum santorum of Kiriteswari Shaktipeeth
Unique architecture of the temple, a mix of Hindu, Islamic and Buddhist styles

At a distance of about 82 kms from Bahula Shaktipeeth is another important temple – Kiriteswari Shaktipeeth, in Kiriteswari village of Murshidabad district. This is where the front part of Maa Sati’s skull had fallen. The word Kirit actually means “crown”, hence the name Kiriteswari. Much as I would have wished to, I did not get an opportunity to explore the village, which had won in 2023 the ‘Best Tourism Village of India’ award by the Union Ministry of Tourism. Kiriteswari Shaktipeeth is the focal point of all cultural and religious activities in this village.

The priest informed that the old temple was destroyed in an earthquake, and the structure built in its place has an interesting mix of Hindu, Buddhist and Islamic architectural style. In the sanctum sanctorum too this blend is visible. Interestingly, the idol of the Goddess is not kept in the temple, and an intricately crafted stone representing the crown is worshipped. Her eyes on the stone radiate an unexplicable energy when you look at them. The idol is kept elsewhere all through the year and is brought out and worshipped for four days in the winter months when a huge fair is also organised attracting thousands of people.

I noticed renovation activity in the temple complex, which has many surrounding small shrines, including of course the Bhairav temple. A new main temple is also coming up soon, in place of the remains of the original structure that has been lying in ruins.

Important info:
How to reach: All the above Shaktipeeths are easily approachable from Burdwan. The city is a major railway junction and is well connected by road from Kolkata.

Accommodation: Hotel RJ is an excellent 4 Star property in Burdwan, and the best place to stay for a few days and explore the area.

Shaktipeeth guided tours are organised across West Bengal by India Beacons Sojourn. WhatsApp contact: Anubha (8585007393) / Sandeep (9903295920).

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’, ‘Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)

Bargabhima, Ratnavali, Shrinkhala Devi, Kalighat: West Bengal Shaktipeeths near Kolkata

Of the 51 Shaktipeeths in India – the maximum number of temples dedicated to Adi Shakti (Mother Goddess) are in the state of West Bengal – from Kalighat temple in the heart of bustling Kolkata city to remote villages and mofussil townships like Kogram and Nalhati. The 13 Shaktipeeths in West Bengal are easily accessible by road, and for all true seekers who wish to visit these sacred places, it is a joyous journey of immeasurable blessings. Interestingly, it is not only a journey by road across hundreds of kilometers, crisscrossing the state, but sets off a far deeper, longer, and exciting journey within the core of our being.

For those unaware, all the 51 Shaktipeeths are temples that enshrine the different parts of Adi Shakti’s (Maa Sati’s) body, manifested as powerful spiritual centres for those seekers who want to connect with the primordial energy of the divine feminine.

Bargabhima Shaktipeeth
My trip began with Bargabhima, popularly known as Vibhash Shaktipeeth in Tamluk region, about 85 kms from Kolkata in Purba Medinipur district. A short flight of steps leads to the temple complex where the extraordinarily beautiful idol of Maa Kali leaves one transfixed. It is believed to be one of the oldest temples in West Bengal, established more than a 1000 years ago. The left ankle of Maa Sati had fallen here. The temple complex includes many surrounding shrines. Taking centrestage in the vast courtyard is a sacred tree and on the other side is the holy tank.

The beautiful idol of Maa Kali in Bargabhima Shaktipeeth

There are many interesting stories and legends associated with the temple, down the ages – from the times of the Pandavas to India’s Freedom struggle. It was originally supposed to have been built by Bhima, the mightiest of all Pandava brothers. Following the Islamic invasion in Bengal, the structure that we see now was built later. It is said that the famous Indian revolutionary, Khudiram Bose, used to come and seek blessings of Maa Kali here.

After having darshan of the resplendent form of Maa Kali at the main temple, do make it a point to visit the Bhairav and Hanuman temple at the entrance. Maa Sati is also called Kapalini in this shaktipeeth, while her Bhairav here is known as Sarvanand.

Ratnavali Shaktipeeth
At a distance of about 86 kms from Kolkata, in Hoogly district of West Bengal, is Ratnavali Shaktipeeth, where Maa Sati’s right shoulder is enshrined. Her Bhairav here is known as Ghanteshwar and his temple itself attracts large crowds from nearby areas.

We reached here early afternoon, but by that time the temple had closed. Looking at our predicament and understanding that we would have to wait for many hours or return back without having darshan of the Goddess, the priest kindly opened a small side window so that we could see her idol. Perched precariously on broken bricks I peered inside the darkened sanctum sanctorum. It took some time for the eyes to adjust to the darkness, but yes I could clearly see the majestic form of Maa Kali. The energy was electrifying and I still get goosebumps when I think of the moment my eyes held her form – darker than the surrounding darkness. It was perhaps her wish that this is how we should see her all encompassing dark countenance, from which everything has emerged and finally merges.

Ratnavali Shaktipeeth

I was informed that Maa Kali’s idol at Ratnavali is in the form in which the dacoits of Bengal used to worship her in the days of yore. Interestingly, painted on the walls of the temple are the names of all 51 Shaktipeeths with each corresponding body part of Maa Sati.

Shrinkhala Devi Shaktipeeth
Also located in Hoogly district is the Shrinkhala Devi Shaktipeeth, where the stomach of Maa Sati had fallen. This is among the 18 Maha Shaktipeeths. It is now unfortunately a disputed site as an Islamic minaret is built on the site of the temple, and nobody is allowed to enter the precincts.
Standing outside the walls, as my eyes gazed wistfully at the surrounding ruins and the minaret built atop the temple, my heart ached that I was unable to enter the sacred ground which housed the temple of Adi Shakti.

However, as I took off my slippers and touched the walls in reverence, I knew that my heart had touched her presence.

The Islamic minaret on the site of Shrinkhala Devi Shaktipeeth

Kalighat Shaktipeeth
In the heart of Kolkata city is Dakshina Kalika, one of the four most powerful Adi Shaktipeeths, the other three being Kamakhya in Guwahati, Bimala in Puri and Tara Tarini in Ganjam district of Odisha. I had first visited Kalighat in my childhood but have little memory of the temple. However my this visit’s memory, I know would never leave me till the day I leave this world. I will try to explain the reason if words can actually convey – the impact of Maa Kali’s eyes.

Even before my own eyes could take in her beautiful flower-decked visage, I could feel the power of her eyes almost tangibly knocking me down. The eyes were not just looking at me, but looking through me, stripping away all the falsities of my little self and my world, as I stood before her empty of everything, apart from the light of my soul.

Amidst all the pushing, jostling of the throng of devotees, at that electrifying moment, I was alone with her, wrapped in her timeless time. I am still there, where she had held me. Where else can I go?

Important info:
How to reach: All the above Shaktipeeths are a short drive from Kolkata city.

Accommodation: There are varied accommodation options across Kolkata city, for all budget categories. I was happy with my stay at Holiday Inn Airport, in the Rajarhat area.

Shaktipeeth guided tours are organised across West Bengal by India Beacons Sojourn. WhatsApp contact: Anubha (8585007393) / Sandeep (9903295920).

(Sudipta is an energy healer and mystical storyteller. Her collection of short stories ‘Invoking Our Inner Goddess’, ‘Mystical Tales Of Sacred Earth’, ‘The Blue God’s Love’ and ‘Enchanted Waters: The Magical Flow Of Life’ are available worldwide on Amazon Kindle.)